Category: Fragrances
Brand: Jean Patou
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sincereOcelot2
Jean Patou QUE SAIS-JE? [1925; nose: Henri Almeras]. Aldehydic/Fruity/Woody Type.
This classic beauty was released by the house of Patou in 1925, the year of the Arts Decoratifs Exposition in Paris… the arts convention that officially launched the “Art Deco” style (even though Europeans have always called it “Le Style Moderne”, not Art Deco).
QUE SAIS-JE?, which means literally “What do *I* know?”, refers to the dizzy beginning of a romance, when one is not thinking wisely or prudently, but rather with emotional ardor. The scent was originally released as part of a trilogy, each suggested for a different wearer’s haircolor. 🙂 QSJ was recommended for brunettes; AMOUR AMOUR for blondes, and ADIEU SAGESSE for redheads.
QSJ is a sweet, fruity, nutty, woody fragrance. It opens with bright, boozy aldehydes, and a peach/pear fruitiness that smells like a peach brandy or hard pear cider. The floralcy is sweet, yet subdued, somewhat “anonymous”: rose, jasmin and ylang-ylang form a soft, muted cushion designed to spotlight the fruit characteristics. In the heart, the fruit takes on a juicy pear-like deliciousness, slathered in a drippy, indolic honey. Hazelnut confers a nutty Pyrazine-warmth, and a delicate herbal accord of French thyme, tarragon, menthol and clove spice up the fruit. The base is a woody accord of cedar, sandalwood, benzoin, a vanilla in its floral guise, musks, and au fond, an unusual, improbable stony/dusty note of myrrh, which anchors and counterbalances the perfume’s essential sweetness.
QSJ? is now long-discontinued and rather difficult to find, though it occasionally crops up on eBay. One must be sure to look for the 1980’s “Ma Collection” re-issue, and take great pains to avoid the monstrous, incorrect bastardization it received upon re-launch in 2014.
Highly recommended. Respected Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer considers QUE SAIS-JE? to be a classic masterpiece that every perfumer must experience at least once in his/her nose training.
trustingMare0
Que Sais-Je is a classic Patou, and a classic Ma. As I’ve gotten to know the Ma collection and the earlier fragrances of the Patou house more I’ve noticed that often one will be sort of a combination of two, or a sister fragrance to another. Colony and Cocktail are sister fragrances, Normandie is a combination of Divine Folie and Moment Supreme, or rather, if the two were to morph, Normandie is about midway through the morphing.
Que Sais-Je is a sister fragrance to Divine Folie. They share the same Eugenol/clove note, parsed in the Patou line as carnation, the same rich orangeblossom, the same oppoponax base. Que Sais-Je is also a sister fragrance to Adieu Sagesse, sharing that resinous gardenia hum, the dryness. But Que Sais-Je has it’s own kick, a little hint of Ma Liberte — vetiver; and it is the forebear of another fragrance duo as well: Serge Luten’s Fumerie Turque and Balenciaga’s Rumba, in their use of what I think is styrax in the base. I ‘ve guessed styrax because both Fumerie Turque and Rumba share styrax in common.
How does that translate into actual smelling experience? QSJ opens with a citric/floral waft, probably bergamot with a little lemon or petitgrain. The citric/fruit aspects open out with a light hint of peach; not hugely peachy but rounding the opening out with a warmer, sweet fruit quality much the way the peach rounds out Mitsouko. Then QSJ moves very quickly into a heart of spicy orangeblossom, that carnation/clove/fragrant waft of eugenol we’ve met before in Divine Folie, White Shoulders, Romeo Gigli, L’Origin. I’m also getting a little base of bulgarian rose in the density of the floral note, and maybe a little jasmine. Moving almost parallel to that spicy floral medley is a subtle resin quality not unlike gardenia. As the notes mingle, the top and mid notes fade, a growly base hits. There’s vetiver and char, the char with a pungency and sour quality that remind me of cigar smoke.
I’m not sure I’d wear Que Sais-Je. The growly cigar smoke bite of the styrax (and honestly, I’m guessing on styrax) has made Rumba and Fumerie Turque unwearable for me. But I’d want a decant of Que Sais-Je and it’s possible that on retest, the growliness won’t go as unwearably into cigar as wi/FT, but hold at a rich base note. I’ve marked “yes” on the buy it again option because even if it’s ultimately unwearable on my skin (and I don’t mean to say its unwearable in general, just on my skin), I’d want to smell and think about it periodically.
anxiousGarlic6
A delicate, pretty fragrance that smells much of fruit and musk. It
honestly reminds me strongly of Exclamation! which is available (most of the Patous seem to be gone from the world) and dirt cheap, unlike Que Sais. Still nice, but for a 1925 fragrance I have to say it seems either ahead of its time or not very special. In the struggle between dated and blah, this one comes out ahead, but only just.
ashamedChile1
The second of the love trilogy perfumes, a fragrance that depicts the moment “où l’esprit s’interroge”; that is to say, the agonizing moment of “he loves me, he loves me not”. Yes, I think I can see what Patou had in mind when he created this one. After the delicious, innocent, bright-eyed optimism of Amour Amour, the first in the trilogy, celebrating the initial flirtatious moment of falling in love, and before Adieu Sagesse, the third, which concludes it, here in the second we are in a limbo of doubts. This is not an easy fragrance to wear, nor is it an easy emotion to experience, bittersweet though it may be. Orange blossom, neroli, amber, and some foreboding. And what if he does not? It’s a pungent, courageous, fierce perfume, that takes some getting used to. Just like love, just like life, just like a future we know nothing about.
blissfulCordial5
I’ve tried most of the Ma Collection fragrances and was desperate to try this one. I didn’t know it was a chypre-fruity, which I can’t wear. If you like Femme, you will like this, although it is less overpowering.
cheerfulLollies3
this is a rather surprising scent — sort of bitter-fruity at first –then drying down slightly powdery-sultry (is there civet in this? patchouli? both?) — still on the adstringent side — a few flowers (rose, maybe?) — it’s all not very clear, and all rather intruiging — definitely a chypre, definitely fruity, definitely NOT sweet — and definitley up my alley. i actually don’t think i’ve ever smelled anything quite like it…may have to get this, soon.
resolvedShads8
UPDATE: Disregard this review. I don’t know what I was sniffing when I wrote it, but I’ve been smelling my last drops of Que Sais-je? for a few weeks now, and I need to revise this review very soon. It’s a wonderful fragrance. More soon. ORIGINAL TEXT: Que Sais-Je? is a nice fruity-floral. Originally released in 1925, it is part of the Ma Collection series. It starts out with an apricot-peach scent with a hint of orange flower, then moves to a pretty jasmine-rose-iris combination. I’m surprised I like this, because I usually don’t care for jasmine, I’m ultra-picky about roses, and I’m only lukewarm around most iris. If there’s vanilla in the drydown, it’s soft, and not very sweet. Maybe a little spice thrown in at the end. Pretty, with a little character. I only have the EDT, and I wish it lasted longer.