Category: Fragrances
Brand: Jean Patou
Ingredients:
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Products You Need:
Sephora Matte Perfection Tinted Moisturizer
JOAH La Bam Balm Tinted Lip Balm
Forever Skin Glow 24HR-Wear Radiant Perfection Skin-Caring Foundation
Matte Perfection Powder Foundation
You Better Work Tinted Day Cream (All Shades)
Tinted Cover Foundation
Foundation Balm
Sublime Mascara
Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation
Pivoine Sublime Peony Tinted Lip Balm SPF 25 – all shades
MTHRSHP Sublime Bronze Ambition Eyeshadow Palette
Sublime Defense Anti-Aging Blurring Moisturizer SPF 30
culturedTermite8
I found a sealed box of this beauty at an estate sale two days ago and returned to buy the last box yesterday. I was quite interested in this frag. after researching it online at fragrantia. It’s a Chypre floral/ floral oriental from almost 20 years ago.
So far I am loving it. It’s more of a lovely citrus scented woodsy scent on me. Reminds me so much of the original Jean Nate, when it was still made by Charles of the Ritz in the 70’s. I love, love, love the amber notes and the musk with the citrus!!
So far, it looks like it is a winner for me. I am hoping to try the newer version of it too!
selfishApples6
worst smell ever! yuck! wouldn’t recommend if you are in your 20’s and 30’s..
artisticOtter5
I have a manufacturers vintage dead stock sample of Sublime EdT by Kerleo, a rich golden (both color and feeling) fruity aldehydic chypre floriental. Coriander, mandarin, green notes, bergamot, orange;carnation, Lily, orris root, Jasmine, ylang,LOTV, rose, orange blossom; sandalwood, Tonka, Amber,musk, civet, vanilla, oak moss, Vetiver,cedar, styrax. I tried this with the the erroneous preconception that it would contain recognizable pineapple. It does bear a resemblance to Caron Acasiosa which is an amazing honeyed pineapple chypre that I sadly found a bit urinous on my skin when I tried the extrait in the intense heat of a past summer. I would rather Acasiosa, but if I had never sampled the Caron, I would find Sublime stellar. Those who are new to vintage, should not worry; Sublime is not at all musty, bitter, dusty like green mid century chypres can be perceived to be (vintage Miss Dior EdC). Nor is it weighted with a base similar to an oxidized caronade or Guerlainade. I did test a small miniature bottle of Patou Colony a while back and found that it evolved on my skin in a similar fashion to Mitsouko but with a slightly offputting opening quality (Costus root also present in Bandit) that Mitsouko doesn’t have. Or perhaps the spice in Mitsouko rounds out the green.
So I would say that from my memory, for different reasons, Sublime is easier to wear than the other two. It’s a warm scent which evolves smoothly into a creamy, slightly soapy (not dusty or powdery dry down). Although it opens a bit brightly due to citrus and green notes, there is no cool bitterness green or pollinated feeling (present in a warm green fragrance like Chamade). It does have some leather aspect, perhaps due to orris root? Although it contains some animalic facets, it’s nothing like Paloma Picasso. Perhaps if EL Beautiful was fruity (yet not water fruity), richer and warmer and more full bodied (like a Sauternes), plus some polished Amber, not the weighty or powdery. . . .
Although it’s smooth, sweet and aldehydic, I would still say that it is too mature for those who are a fan of modern mainstream scents. I found Mac789’s review below very informative in relating Sublime to Montaigne. I wore Montaigne extrait for several years, then Farnesiana, then FM UFDC, so Sublime didn’t immediately jump to mind. For the vintage lover, it is a must try, especially if you ever wished Chanel 5 or Amouage gold or Montaigne for that matter were fruity as well as sweeter but not gourmand and richer. The carnation adds depth, but this is not super spicy or dusky. If I was solely going by my personal taste, I would award this 3, Acasiosa 4. However, on its own merits, aside from other scents, it is easily deserving of 4 lippies. I have not tested the reformulations (2000 and 2013).
innocentDinosaur0
Okay, I am reading very schizophrenic reviews of a superb fragrance here and would like to make just one comment (or two – hey, I’m a woman, I’m entitled to change my mind)
If you like an original fragrance always ensure that you aren’t buying the revised version, which can be to attar what dribbles in the cat box are to the product on the counter.
And always try to buy a smaller amount of the higher concentration. I generally find edts that aren’t formulated as such (4711 for example) are already at the corner before one is even done dabbing or spraying them on. One has to run like a fiend to catch up with their evaporating molecules – which is counter productive.
Sublime – the sublime that I have, from years ago – is one of the happiest, throw-open-the-windows-and-sing-Edelweiss, dig into the Eton Mess kind of scents that are few and far between. Exactly as it was named – it is sublime. So that I will take care always to ask whether a scent I like or wish to test has been rejigged. Rejigging usually means less-for-more, substitution of leaner, more miserly molecules for the more expensive ones of old, but with a price hike. I can’t recall any company notifying customers that it was going to be dropping half the ingredients out of its very highly-priced concoction. But always have a good look. Even the colour of the rejigged Sublime has a greenish, pale, thin cast, compared to the thick, rich jus from the beginning of the 1990s. I already pay a lot for my scents, so I want the real thing, the original formula. the one that made me fall in love at first sniff.
And there will be much more of this, given that not only do companies want to squeeze the greatest profit from us, but now certain materials are in danger of being banned which would gut the industry. No one can justify killing an animal for its scent glands, but oak moss and other vegetable substances grow back. To discard an entire class of ingredient because a small percentage of the population might react is truly shortsighted. While we’re at it, let us use the same reasoning and ban carrot juice (too much can poison you – it’s the beta-carotene).
(c)2014 daisy morant
cockyThrush7
Sublime is a very nice floral fragrance. I’m pretty sure I have a reformulation, as the top notes are a little thin. I don’t get that strong whiff of green notes others have written about. All the same, I really like Sublime. It dries down to a lovely vanilla floral that is both rich and subtle. Quietly beautiful.
ferventMare4
Wow, what a shape-shifter of a fragrance. I’m definitely liking this one … and I don’t consider myself a lover of florals or of Patou.
Sublime opens strong & very green to me, a phase that I truly enjoy. As it dries, I pick up incense, aldehydes, florals. The base is there and comes in & out during the wear — vanilla, amber and sandalwood. As it dries, Sublime seems creamy & dreamy, classy but not stuffy. The ylang-ylang, orris and carnation are noticeable but don’t dominate. Kind of ends on a whimper of its former self — about 4 hours out it’s a soft base.
I think Sublime is best characterized as a floriental. At the opening, it seems like it’s a formal occasion fragrance. But Sublime tames quickly and easily could be an everyday fragrance.
I’ve heard this is reformulated but I’m not sure what vintage that I have. I purchased a part bottle, EdP in 30ml, and given excellent condition without a box, I suspect it’s relatively young. If you watch for it, it’s possible to pick up a part bottle on ebay for well under $20.
Sublime reminds me a lot of my beloved Van Cleef by VCA. If truth be told, I prefer Van Cleef to Sublime, hence the 4-lippie rating rather than 5. Even so, I have a feeling that Sublime is going to become one of my favorite fragrances because it is so easy to wear. I am now on the hunt for a vintage formulation.
solemnTacos1
THis used to be my HG fragrance, its beautiful but it is discontinued.
outlyingEagle1
Ah….Sublime! This fragrance has to be the best smelling fragrance in my collection (and I have >100). I say it’s the best smelling, but it’s not my most worn fragrance because regardless of the pleasant rush I get from this scent, I find it hard to wear.
I get 2 distinct sensations from this fragrance….almost like layering 2 different scents on each other. The first sensation is of warm oranges and cinnamon – unbelievably pleasant. The second sensation is of a powdery floral accord sitting on top of those warm oranges. Totally unique and happy without being frilly.
Good sillage, loads of compliments, but I tend to get confused as to whether to wear it in the summer or winter (of course I know I can wear it anytime, I’m just writing/refering to the ‘feeling” that I get when selecting my fragrance for the day). But, whenever I do spray it on, I am sooo glad that I did.
thriftyDinosaur9
Not that sublime on me. I like the slight powder elements to the fragrance at the opening but everything else just doesn’t agree with my body chemistry. This on me reminds me of “OFF” mosquito spray into the drydown. And the jasmine is too much for me since it’s one of my least favorite notes and seems to dominate the other floral notes. As it wears it gets better on my skin but not enough to ever be something I’d seek to wear.
drearyCur0
Sublime is a big, urban amber-Oriental in the manner of Caron’s Alpona and Montaigne. Since both of these Caron classics preceded the Patou (1992), it makes one wonder about their possible influence on its composition.
The hesperidic opening of Sublime follows closely that of Montaigne, although to a lesser degree, and its amber-powder-earthy base reveals kinship to Alpona. Without knowing its creator, I’d have pegged Sublime as a semi-modern Caron.
Sublime is marked by an enormous vetiver note that rushes up from the base to meet the topnotes. It is this, more than the floral, that defines Sublime for me. The vetiver is the backbone of the scent and it is needed in this role, since the first shot of Sublime can be difficult. Classified as an Oriental and largely discussed for the vanilla of the base, Sublime confounds if this categorization is taken strictly. The scent dates from the last gasp of the Big Perfume era and it smells it; there is nothing like it made today and I doubt there will be a return to that era of perfumery as jewelry. Wearing Sublime is like wearing a giant brooch of canary diamonds; it is that item that one pins on as personal stylistic signature and without which one would not go out the door.
Sublime’s opening is a shiny, aldehydic one and it comes in a rush: spray it or dab it and you are surrounded by patchouli, vetiver, orange, and civet. The floral notes (jasmine, orange blossom) make only minor intervention, although the orange blossom does add soapiness. Something green interferes a bit with the beginning, giving Sublime a temporary greenish sheen. It’s almost too big at this point and seemingly too formal. Wait through the center and talcum is introduced through a vanilla note. This stage will serve as a foundation for the base as the vetiver asserts and is equaled by patchouli, dry amber, and a hint of the civet first detected in the opening.
Sublime is not the most emotionally available scent. It’s mannered and groomed in its gentility, yet it contains a strong assertion of power. This is typical of fragrances from this era and from this genre, although the way the base centers around the vetiver/amber is a much older idea. The vetiver has the same earthy rawness of the vetiver in Fracas and might even lean towards bitterness or burnt quality if one is, as I am, sensitive to the note.
Even with my own reservations about Sublime’s presentation (which is simply too big and bright for me on one hand and too strongly burnt-vetiver on the other), it is a fragrance of exceptional categorical merit. Though it defeats me, it should most certainly be explored by anyone who adores Alpona, Montaigne, Fracas, and Habanita.