Category: Fragrances
Brand: Rochas
Ingredients:
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spiritedThrush9
It’s hard to find the right adjectives to describe Rochas Tocade… it is so beautifully crafted. It’s a Luca Turin favourite for a very good reason. There’s an old-fashioned quality to Rochas Tocade that nods to legendary perfume juggernauts of yesteryear such as Guerlain Shalimar, yet it still manages to smell ‘modern’ at the same time. I can see any women in every age group pulling this off effortlessly. It does not smell like any of the new perfumes (read: fizzy fruitchoulis) being marketed and churned out as of late, but somehow it doesn’t smell dated. Although Tocade smells very upscale, sexy and feminine, it’s very also bright and cheerful; Tocade is a happy fragrance that puts a smile on my face. It smells “fluffy” in a way as it’s quite endearing and cuddly. The soft and sweet pillowiness of this fragrance makes it a great comfort fragrance.
Now, I have never tried the original formulation but I’m very pleased by the 2013 reformulated juice. To me, Tocade is very much a vanilla-rose affair from the top down so in that respect it’s pretty linear, but it reveals so many different facets of that wonderful accord. Still, Tocade manages to be masterfully blended; the notes in this perfume all meld together so seamlessly, that they smell like an entire “single” note. It is niche quality stuff. At first, Tocade opens with salted pepper note (?!) which is then followed by a heady, boozy rose liqueur. The vanilla at the beginning is very innocent-seeming, but that doesn’t last long. She starts to uncover her true nature in a come-hither way, firstly captivating you with a happy, girl-next-door vanilla and then she is reveals herself as dark, ambery and sexy. I agree with another reviewer that there’s a certain spice added to the vanilla that is not listed in the notes–cinnamon, to be exact (I guess Maurice Roucel is very masterful at creating spicy vanilla aromas). The rose is very lush and full in the heart, with the whole composition encapsulated with powdery iris and a touch of freshness from the magnolia. Eventually, the rose becomes more demure, and becomes more buttery. The vanilla fully blooms on the skin, thick but soft at the same time. The composition is grounded by sensual woods to balance that quality and gives the fragrance depth. People are saying that this reminds them of the Turkish delight (loukhoum) dessert and while I wouldn’t necessarily disagree with this assessment, Tocade never really smells foody at all to me. The rose is too luscious and fresh, and actually has a wet quality in the top and heart stages. The deep vanilla in this IS reminiscent of vanilla extract, but it’s grounded by inedible sandalwood and iris.
The sillage and longevity of Tocade is excellent. Two sprays is all I need to last the whole day, and I have fragrance-eating skin. I was surprised to find out that this was only an eau de toilette and not eau de parfum! It definitely feels more like one. The quality of this fragrance would suggest a higher sticker price, so this is a complete steal in my opinion. This is a love for me.
sugaryPear7
Highly commended by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez as an underrated gem composed by Maurice Roucel, I finally bought a bottle in my Xmas order and am pleased to report that Tocade is just wonderful. That I didn’t have to part with a great many dollars for it was a Xmas present in itself. And it slotted in to the festive season with great aplomb, the Turkish delight blending with vanilla and geranium rose that in turn blended with fruit mince pies and egg nog. Tocade’s use of magnolia reminded me of what Un Matin D’Orage should have been at a fraction of the price. Included here is a little excerpt of Maurice Roucel talking to Cafleurlebon on his favourite note, which Cafleurlebon thought was Magnolia.
“MR: It certainly is not michelia centifloria…where did that come from. Who said that? You can’t trust everything you read 🙂 But I did discover a species of magnolia that is not my signature, but I am very proud of finding and creating, it’s an extraction from a Chinese magnolia. Ambergris is my favorite”
I believe the magnolia in Tocade is this invention of Roucel’s. Mine is the reformulated perfume, which I am led to believe did not suffer much and may have had a compensatory factor added for goodwill.
culturedPonie4
I first wore this about 20 years ago – when it smelled perhaps a little too strong!
But I suddenly decided to try it again and am delighted I did. What was too strong is now most acceptable – probably because as you get older your skin is less absorbent and the smell doesn’t change so much. Perfect for a cold winter day – probably overwhelming in a warm climate – but very cheering in Ireland . A bit like Femme – that I always disliked but as someone had given me a big spray bottle – very trendy in the sixties! – had to wear. Everybody but me thought it was great – so made other people happy………..
mercifulBuck2
Skin chemistry issue with this Vanilla rose amber patchouli by Maurice Roncel.
My skin turns this into something too sweet, too plastic, artificial vanilla rose. My skin also doesn’t always handle citrus well; here, it to become even more candied on me.
I am not a fan of sweet scents or gourmands generally.
I get the plastic doll head reference reviewers have mentioned below.
I have tried this a number of times and tried to view it’s plastic quality as ironic for a relatively vintage fragrance (the fact that something from the 1990s is considered vintage is amusing in and of itself).
However, those whose skin doesn’t evoke plastic and who like Lady Vengeance might find this along the same lines, albeit sweeter. I did a summary comparison of rose chypre or it’s modern equivalent rose patchouli in my review of Heeleys hippie rose.
adoringOcelot9
Tocade is a very pretty, rosy vanilla fragrance. It reminds me of rosewater scented candy. Unlike many of the other reviewers, I don’t get much sillage from this scent. Instead it stays really close to my skin, which I prefer. The only thing I wish is that this fragrance lasted longer. I only get about four hours of wear out of it.
Edit: After wearing Tocade for a while, I needed to up my rating to five lippies. The vanilla in this is so light and smooth. And the combination of the vanilla with the rose is perfect. This never feels too sweet or chemical smelling to me. It just makes me feel really pretty and relaxed. It’s not the longest wearing perfume, but I don’t mind reapplying. It’s that good.
eagerLollies8
Wear Tocade and everybody will try to cuddle you that day:)
Such is the magic of its friendly rose petals and generous vanilla.
anxiousPorpoise9
Pink and powerful, Tocade is borderline overwhelming. I bought it blind because it got 5 stars in The Guide and initially I was put off. Too much rose, too much vanilla, too foody, too floral, too loud, too sweet. However, I grew to love Tocade in all its excess and now fully enjoy this extravagant mixture of rose and vanilla. The rose facets are both dewy fresh and liquor like in their sweetness. The vanilla notes are smokey, syrupy, and sugary by turns. A dose of amber in the base provides a ballast for this billowing cloud of rose and vanilla. This is a huge perfume, impressive as it is excessive. The sillage is massive and the lasting power is impressive. Wear with care!
My only disappointment is the bottle: a hideous and undeserving home for such a beautiful and delicious perfume.
jumpyBurritos8
Tocade smells like turkish delight without being too sugary. The rose is lush and candied and the vanilla is deep and sensual. This fragrance is a classic, one that transcends its time. It doesn’t smell like other 90s scents, nor does it smell like any of today’s sugar-patchouli behemoths.
Luscious, delicious, sexy, and about $40 for 100ml. Proof there is a perfume god and that he loves us.
curiousPudding7
When I was a child my mother had a friend that wore tocade… as I got older my olfactory center would smell tocade without it even being present … I then asked my mom if she remembered what it was and strangely she did. I have owned it ever since! It’s different than anything that I’ve ever worn, at first it’s sooooo overwhelming I need to put it on and run out of my bathroom and just shut the door. This is definitely a scent that must work with your personal body chemistry. It fades into a complex sweet flowery musky amazing scent. Give it a try and let it dry down before you judge.
joyfulGarlic8
After reading the review of Tocade in The Guide, and finding it for a steal at a discount store, I bought it without testing first. I remember sitting in the car, because I can never wait until I get home, and spraying some in the box so I could smell it. My first impression was slight repulsion. Since then, I have grown to love it. There’s a place in my heart that only Tocade can fill. That initial “plasticky” note gives the fragrance an angle that other typical rose/vanilla frags don’t have. Imo, it adds an element of dimension, like the juxtaposition of animalic vs. vanilla notes in Shalimar. I often spray Tocade on the back of my hand, even when I’m in the mood for something else, just so I can smell it throughout the day.