Category: Treatments (Face)
Brand: Unlisted Brand
Ingredients:
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shyDinosaur0
ProCeramide Emulsion Preparatory Cleanser (called ProCeramide Cleanser now) is the first step in Australian Cosmetic Chemist Richard Parker’s ‘Essential Six’ skin care regimen.
Firstly some information about the man himself. He has a similar story and passion of the founding of his brand eerily similar to that of the famous Paula Begoun, the founder of Paula’s Choice.
Richard Parker at the age of 25 was a competitive swimmer with bad acne and sun damage. So he sought out to find the best skin he could possible get. This would involve (like Begoun) countless hours in medical libraries, reading dermatological textbooks and pharmacology journals.
In his own words “I knew I had found my calling in life; to marry medical science to cosmetic formulation, creating a skincare regime that delivered on its promise of a healthy, radiant complexion. ”
“My own story started with my disappointment at skincare that promised (but failed) to change my problematic skin; a combination of sun damage and acne. So I embarked on a self-directed journey to discover “what works”.
“In 2012, we created a new skincare paradigm with the launch of our Isotropic Formulation technology using skin identical ingredients to deliver the necessary active ingredients at the correct concentrations to target precise tissues and cells, protecting and restoring skin health and radiance. ”
So began the Rationale skin care line which launched to my knowledge around the same time as Paula’s Choice, 1993,1994 or 1995 in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Richard Parker uses very complex medical, dermatological and formulation science words in the description of their products, that unless your are well versed in these terms, would simply be going out one ear and out the other. I appreciate wholeheartedly his exhaustive quest for “what works” but dressing up skin care labels and instructions with all sorts of claims like “medical grade” “down to the cellular level” “target DNA” sounds just like any other Cosmeceutical (because Rationale is what you would call a cosmeceutical brand(think PRIORI, SKINCEUTICALS,A.S.A.P, ULTRACEUTICALS, PAULA”S CHOICE, THE ORDINARY etc,”Medical grade” is not a regulated term in the world of skin care) with a doctor or cosmetic chemist behind it, completely exaggerating anything with scientific words and medical jargon in the hopes that it will look as scientific as possible, for the sheep to follow.
I must say Rationale has been very clever in the way they present themselves in the overcrowded skin care world. From their unique indie, almost cubist style of packaging, their emphasis on the science of how skin naturally protects itself, their emphasis on the fact that more is not necessarily better that skin has very specific levels of actives like Vitamin C for example within the skin naturally and that going overboard isn’t necessarily a good thing, their emphasis on not cleansing in the morning they believe your night actives marry and have a synergistic effect with your morning regimen, to their well spoken staff (much prefer the attitude at Rationale than at pretentious rival AESOP, don’t get me started) and their emphasis on a delivery system called Isotropic Formulations.
According to wikipedia
“Isotropic formulations are thermodynamically stable microemulsions possessing lyotropic liquid crystal properties. They inhabit a state of matter and physical behaviour somewhere between conventional liquids and that of solid crystals. Isotropic formulations are amphiphillic, exhibiting selective synchronicity with both the water and lipid phases of the substrate to which they are applied. Most recently, isotropic formulations have been used extensively in dermatology for drug delivery.
Uses
While it is well established that the skin provides an ideal site for the administration of local and systemic drugs, it presents a formidable barrier to the permeation of most substances Isotropic formulations have been used to deliver drugs locally and systemically via the skin appendages, intercellular and transcellular routes. ”
Richard Parker has made clear in his countless emails, blog, magazine interviews and website that skin care should be as skin identical(another term famously, originally used by Paula Begoun) as possible. When actives are present, bioavailable and can penetrate easily to where they need to work efficiently in tandem with the natural functions of skin, it supposedly makes for the best skin care possible.
I was told on my first visit to a Rationale clinic that Rationale uses only the most minimal exact research backed ingredients possible to make a difference in skin, that each and every ingredient in their formulas has some benefit for skin. I would then like to ask why almost each and every product is in a base of either organic Rose or Orange Blossom Water, within the Essential Six, there is dare I say it an almost pervasive use of essential oils (volatile oils) like Lavender, Lavandin, Geranium, Clove, Grapefruit, May Chang, Lemon Peel, of course these are all labelled as “Phytoceuticals”, another unregulated term.
I personally cannot use essential oils of any kind of my facial skin, my body skin doesn’t seem to react but on my facial skin I always, always suffer from breakouts in association with these or what they really are fragrance components. Studies on essential oils and their benefit for skin is limited, there is research to demonstrate that they do in fact offer some anti-bacterial, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory benefit, but that research isn’t as widely established as say research in relation to Vitamin A (Retinol, Tretinoin), Vitamin B3 Niacinamide, Vitamin C and it’s many derivatives, anti-oxidants, peptides, cell communicating ingredients, ant-irritants and anti-inflammatories.
I’ve written too much here and not enough for a review of the cleanser,I will review this cleanser when I review my next product for Rationale
relievedMandrill4
IMO, this cleanser works well when your skin doesn’t need a lot of cleansing, or when it’s dry.
Don’t expect it to do a good job of taking off sunscreen or makeup unless you use quite a lot.
I find myself using one cleanser to remove the makeup and then using this to… well so I can use it because it was $90. Supposedly leaving it on your skin for a while has some benefit.
The price is what lets this down. Not that it’s $90 but because there’s a lot better at the same price, or more (or less for that matter).
It’s not a bad product but I don’t see any need to keep using it.
Also my dermatologist told me not to use this brand because of some of the ingredients (go figure) but I think the cleanser at least is innocuous.
pacifiedCurlew1
In my late 20’s I started to get adult acne. It was horrible and made me feel so unattractive. I happened upon Rationale from the place I would get
Laser from. It’s pretty expensive but it cleared up my skin and has made
It look lovely and years younger. Do yourself a favour and buy some!
culturedTuna4
I absolutely love this range of products. They have changed the way I view skincare. However, in my whole skincare routine, my cleanser is the only non-Rationale product I use. I tried the Rationale cleanser, but it just is not strong enough to remove zinc based products and you are supposed to use zinc based sunscreen as part of the Rationale routine. In fact, it is just not a very effective cleanser if you are a makeup wearer. I followed my doctors advice and use the Rationale skin refining serum and retinaldehyde at night. In the morning, I use the Niacinamide followed by a SPF 30+ Zinc based foundation.. At night you are supposed to wash it off with the Preparatory Cleanser prior to using the other products. This works like a foaming cleanser and despite giving my face a thorough wash, I had strong traces of makeup left and the cleanser hardly foamed at all. I had to return to my old faithful Gatineau Melatogenine Cleanser to get my makeup off thoroughly. The other drawback is the price. Rationale is very expensive because it is medical grade skincare. However the cleanser does not have any medical grade ingredients, unlike the rest of the range, so I think the price is a bit steep. Wont purchase again.
soreSausage3
Definitely the BEST cleanser I’ve used (and I’ve tried alot of cleansers for my acne- prone/combination skin). I have sensitive skin but then I also get acne and I’m really oily around my t-zone. But then …sometimes my face is dried.
Yes, it’s complicated! This cleanser is really really good. It smells quite nice and it does the job. My skin feels so soft and my skin doesn’t break out at all. My skin doesn’t feel dry or oily! And I only use one pump of the cleanser twice a day and it’s been nearly 3 months and I’ve only used a quarter of it!
It’s a bit pricey though, I purchased it from a cosmetic clinic. But definitely worth all the $65 AUD and I will definitely be purchasing again. 🙂
<3
grudgingRuffs8
I love this cleanser. It is a solvent based cleanser as opposed to a detergent based cleanser so there is no foaming and it is very mild – does not strip natural oils. If you like a little exfoliation though, you can just use a washcloth or sometimes I like to use a mild fuzzed out buff puff.
It smells great (sweet orange oil again!) and is very creamy. My face does not feel dry or tight after using it. I only need one pump of the cleanser so the bottle usually lasts 4-5 months.
As for the packaging, usually it’s great but I did get a couple of bum pump bottles that leak product out the top end…weird…could have been damaged in shipping as it came all the way from Australia.
Definitely thumbs up.