Renew Level 4 Vitamin A Serum

1 Review

1. 

   wingedChamois7

   Reply

   FYI: Skip the next paragraph if you’re in a hurry.

   I settled on retinaldehyde (retinal) as my retinoid of choice after reading a number of peer-reviewed articles. At low concentrations (0.05% IIRC), it performs as well as retinoic acid in acne prevention/treatment (retinal has been shown to kill P. acnes, for those who deal with breakouts but not fungal acne) and treatment of photodamage when combined in a regimen with AHAs. Participants on the retinal regimen experienced far fewer side effects. Retinal is one step closer to retinoic acid in the metabolism of retinol, so bioavailability of identical concentrations works in its favor (controlling for release mechanism, etc.)

   As it turns out, there aren’t many retinal products on the market and quite a few of those that exist are in cream form, which I don’t find ideal in terms of layering/absorption. Osmsosis Renew (level 4) is the most powerful option in the Osmosis Vitamin A lineup with 0.1625% retinal, which may realistically be more than is useful (I haven’t checked). It’s recommended for “resilient or conditioned” skin, though I don’t think users who are accustomed to low-level retinoids or mid-level direct acids will suffer much sensitivity, if any. While I don’t have particularly sensitive skin, I began with Level 3 Correct (0.075% retinal and a slightly different INCI formulation) having only used The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% previously. I didn’t experience any sensitivity, redness, or peeling, even when combined with direct acids in the form of toners or leave-on treatments.

   Both Correct and Renew contain collagen-supportive ingredients like hydroxyproline and dimethyl sulfone, soothing asiaticoside, peptides (including one signal peptide), lactic acid, beta glucan, and antioxidants from oils. While I believe the retinal concentration in Clarify (level 2) and Correct are adequate for effective treatment, the formulations (in my experience) are thicker, stickier, quicker to dry, and less pleasant to use. I found Correct difficult to layer and prone to pilling. With a price difference of $10 between it and Renew ($78 vs. $88), the additional amount of product I had to use negated the negligible savings. (It is worth noting the Correct retinal concentration has increased to 0.086%, so a product reformulation is possible.)

   One pump of Renew is plenty if patted lightly into the palms of the hands and then over the face/neck, going back afterwards to cover the areas around the nose and more closely around the mouth/eyes. (Dotting it on the face and neck would also work, but might require more product. I typically try to keep retinoid application light due to potency and research which has shown that the ingredient benefits more than just the immediate application area.) In comparison, Correct required two pumps due to thickness and also had a distinctly golden color that tended to temporarily stain the skin if not spread quickly enough. (Osmosis indicates the product for AM and PM use, so this can be an issue.)

   All of the Osmosis A products come in plastic, airtight, light-resistant pump packaging. I have experienced cracking of the lid upon dropping, but due to the package design, the lid is technically unnecessary in terms of preservation. The bottle feels sturdy overall.

   I credit both products with keeping my skin smooth and healthy. I have never had many breakouts, though the active ingredient’s abilities in that regard are always a benefit. I am 31 and at an age where many collagen-preserving, anti-aging products are largely preventive (i.e. difficult to gauge), but I recommend this product without reservation, especially if prescription retinoids are too irritating.