Category: Fragrances
Brand: Unlisted Brand
Ingredients:
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Zibeline by Weil is a Aldehydic/Woody/Floral/Animalic fragrance for women. Zibeline was launched in 1928. The nose behind this fragrance is Claude Fraysse.
Top notes are aldehydes, coriander, tarragon, bergamot and lemon;
Middle notes are iris, gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose;
Base notes are honey, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet and vetiver.
This review is for the vintage 1928-formula Parfum de Toilette (essentially an Eau de Parfum); my batch appears to be from the 1960’s or 70’s.
An opening of brilliant, very sharp aldehydes, with a tinge of boozy tarragon, a note of “Pledge”-like lemon oil, muted bergamot, followed by an immediate impression of civet. Then a muted woody impression, colored by a subtle gardenia and nostalgic orange blossom emerges, laced with a faint, oldschool jasmine and hint of ylang.
Gradually, the basenotes appear: honey, opoponax, tonka, orris, and a curious, nigh-gourmand impression of butter, yellow pollen and caramel. It is at this point that ZIBELINE seems very similar indeed to Lanvin PRÉTEXTE, and somewhat like Lanvin ARPÈGE. Perhaps this is no surprise, as Claude Fraysse, the father of Andre and Jacqueline Fraysse, was the nose behind it.
Like the classic Lanvins, there is not a strongly etched, focused smell profile to the perfume (as you’d start getting in the late-1970’s and 80’s); rather, it has that soft-edged, powdery, mutable quality of the first half of the 20thc, suggesting it will smell differently on different skins.
In drydown, there is the marriage of a “golden” smelling opoponax and a pronounced tonka bean, with its curious tobacco-like “burn” and deep quasi-vanillic, caramelized qualities (which is found amplified tenfold in Coty ÉMERAUDE). Though opoponax is not mentioned in the above olfactive pyramid, it is a MAJOR player in this scent, let me assure you. Honey, musk, iris and faint jasmine color this sweet accord.
ZIBELINE is a gorgeous, decidedly oldschool aldehydic/floral/woody, laced generously with animalics. As I say, it is, to my nose anyway, extremely similar to Lanvin PRÉTEXTE and not too far removed from ARPÈGE– but sweeter and more white floral.
I confess, I am not picking up on the suggestive, fishy “naughty knickers” qualities that others have ascribed to ZIBELINE. In fact, I get more of that marine/ambergris note from Lanvin MY SIN than I do from this fragrance.
Even with a generous application, this Parfum de Toilette maintains a discreet powder-puff quality, with no overpowering basenotes or strong sillage. I like it very much, though it will probably not become one of my alltime favorites.