Category: Fragrances
Brand: Frederic Malle
Ingredients:
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kindBoa7
One thing I’ve learned in my sampling is that perfumes that smell weird to other people don’t smell weird to me. Maybe this means I’m weird. At any rate, Une Fleur de Cassie has been described by others as smelling like wet cardboard at best, and at worst like things I won’t mention here, except that they involve babies or the circus. Use your imagination.
Using my imagination is proving difficult for me, though, because I find Cassie a bit hard to describe. It’s centered around mimosa, a note I usually find too prim yet perky for my taste. But Cassie is neither of those things. It is lush and honeyed. This is another of those deliberately-retro scents, like a woman who only wears vintage clothing–that woman on a sultry summer night.
While racking my brain trying to think of a comparison for it (because you have to think of something while you’re walking to the bus stop), it occurred to me: There used to be (maybe still is) a line of erotic oils, unguents, etc. called Kama Sutra. They had a product I was fond of called Honey Dust. This was honey-scented (and flavored, for that matter) powder. So it smelled like honey and powder, in a hippy-dippy sort of way. And Une Fleur de Cassie is like that hippie honey powder–if a time warp brought it back to the Roaring Twenties. Got that?
bubblyCrackers3
I bought a mostly empty sample vial of this at a junk store (truly) and I wasn’t terribly excited to try it on, just because I had wanted to try a Frederic Malle perfume for years and years and I just didn’t want to be disappointed.
I am not disappointed. I am so flipping excited about this I can barely stand it. From a urinous lily scent (which, as we all know, is exactly how some of them smell) then an aldehyde blast and maybe some Clinique Aromatics Elixir and was that Chanel No 5 that just blew past?… there were a whole host of notes that I already can’t remember but it’s settled down to sweet violet Vanderbilt with a gentle fuzz of aromatics and caramel without being sickly. It’s wholesome and sweet and fresh, with a gentle carnality ready to come out and play when it’s appropriate. I am so glad I found this. It’s amazing and I hope it has some decent staying power because if it does I will buy a bottle!
ETA: the staying power isn’t great, at least not in the dainty little amounts I use when I’m testing, and I understand that this is an acquired taste, but I am all in. It smells amazing.
affectedBittern8
Something about thhis blend is strongly reminiscent of aldehydes in the initial blast despite not being mentioned as a note. The florals start to pop as it dries down.It’s beautifully blended so that none of the florals really stand out above the others, aside from the mimosa, which is such a soft non traditional floral that the fragrance defies comparison, imo. FBW. Classy af. This would be equally at home during a fine dining experience, running errands in a trench coat, and gardening wearing a giant straw hat in the sun.
I left off one star because it is so expensive. This line is almost cost prohibitive to me, and I don’t have a super high ceiling with regard to cost for anything. 200+ for 1.7 oz is gratuitously priced, imo. But this is how luxury goods work, I spose.
boredSeahorse7
I found the review of zazie33 below very informative. The success of this fragrance is dependent on skin chemistry. I don’t believe in suffering for hours through a horrible opening to get to a dry down. In fact, if I smelt fecal, urinous, cuminous,body odor, overly indolic, paper mill etc., I would be the first to scrub. Due to my particular skin chemistry, I get none of those horrible notes at all. I find MKK or khiel’s musk rollerball far FAR more animalic
The first time I put in on my skin, I knew it was my desert island fragrance, rich lush, sensual, pollinated, complex, perfectly crafted. It just worked on me, and I am not a fan of aldehydic florals generally. Une fleur de cassie is indescribably wonderful on my skin in all weather. I have a bottle from when it was released and numerous, numerous 10ml travel flasks. My only quibble is sometimes I prefer to dab it rather than spray it. So I decant some. The leather note here is subtle and not at all plastic or rubbery, but melds into the soft florals and skin.
Sometimes I read a review and try to figure out if the reviewer’s skin chemistry and aesthetic are similar to mine. So it may be helpful to explain general types of fragrance that work and ones that fail on me. Some people cannot wear grapefruit fragrance due to sulfuric issues; I wear grapefruit scents like Guerlain Pamplemousse without any problem. But I have a hard time with certain indoles, i.e., vintage caron Narcisse Noire extrait (orange blossom white floral indolic) that turn urinous on me. I also cannot wear Schiaperelli Shocking. Some lemon or bergamot top notes become a cross between sickly sweet lemon cough drop and furniture polish. I keep trying tauer’s fragrances (une rose chypre, incense rose etc) but the citric amber tones become too sweet in hot summer weather ( though I love them in colder weather). I also have issues with some phenolic leathery chypres, like Bandit, and azuree, though I keep trying. And, bizarrely sometimes l’ Artisan Seville a l’ Aube turns into a dry down of salted, lightly sweetened corn chips.
If your skin chemistry works with this, you will also know because you will garner many compliments. I think of UFdC as a modern reinterpretation of Caron vintage Farnesiana extrait which IMO was more animalic and less sweet than the current extrait.
crummyCod9
There is no getting around this. It smells of sex, or at least fresh female pudenda. You almost cannot help blushing when this accord hits your nose. Mixed with mimosa and woods, it becomes a sensual and elegant hybrid. The tenacity is amazing — you must spritz lightly. It blooms on your skin, and everyone around you will ask about it. Most will love it. It takes a perfumer who loves women, who understands that there is no Madonna/Whore divisiveness among real women, as we encompass parts of both –and the sum is better than the parts. Truly symphonic. A great work of perfume art. One of my top five.
grizzledChough9
Une Fleur de Cassie is a beautiful fragrance but it is a bit of an acquired taste I feel. You must adore mimosa and dusty yellow mimosa flowers at that.
Firstly the bottle I have is the newer with the shiny new cap with EdP on the top of it. The color of the scent is a deep golden yellow – my favorite color for scents ! ( Not pink or blue etc… )
A lot of people have said they perceive a urinous note with Une Fleur and that it smells a bit dirty / animalistic. I have never been able to get that. Une Fleur opens pure dusty sweet mimosa and violet flowers on me and more or less remains that way . It’s kind of hazy and foggy , a little vintage smelling , slightly green too but never anything rremotely bad or urine- like. I have the 100 ml bottle which will probably last me my whole life because as much as I love this scent, it is not really me though I do wear it when the mood strikes.
trustingCrackers1
I’m a mimosa lover and whenever I smell some – well, cassie – in a fragrance, I run to my stash and smell this.
If I’m lucky, a perfume will have a colour association for me, Une Fleur de Cassie paints whole pictures, scenes in front of my eyes, one after another. It starts with a darkish, full-bodied, almost fuming carnation and maybe some glue or rubber, a tigress looking at me in the eye. I’m almost dizzy and high, and transported to a mysterious Latin country surely. There is a party, a fire, dresses, high heels, music, drums, tempo and my tigress has turned into a woman enjoying the heat of her own body. There are many reviews here that say that it smells like dung, urine, baby diapers and I believe them. Still, I never get these from Une Fleur de Cassie myself. I can’t even call it skank. It’s just intense and passionate, soon to move on to its sweeter and spicy mid-notes. Now I sense a laziness, a bit of powder, maybe the combination of peach and aldehydes with a bit of rose and violet showing their little faces from time to time. I don’t think I could perceive these separately if I hadn’t read about the notes, but here they are. The drydown is a woman taking an afternoon nap in a hot climate. My tigress is now breathing deeply in her sleep, muscles of her body move in apprehension but she is unexpectedly calm. This is surprising after what I have witnessed. Une Fleur de Cassie is now some warm skin that has eaten up a lot of heat. I also get some sweet, balmy sandalwood. This isn’t some transcendental perfection of femininity deprived of all imperfections and humaneness. It’s a real human body that isn’t trying to erase its wrinkles or get rid of its curves and whatnot. It’s one of the most complex perfumes I’ve tried in my life and very melancholy at times. It’s still very wearable. Thank you Ropion, for creating this.
bubblySnail2
Mmmmmmmmm
I think I have weird chemistry. Many perfumes that work for other people smell nasty and screechy on me. This smells divine. It has a bit of a body odor note for the first few minutes, but then it leaves and I’m left with a creamy, gorgeous scent.
aloofBuck2
Beautiful, yes, but also shockingly animalic. Really does smell like a baby’s feces along with the delicious and complex and shimmering peppery florals. Take the ‘diaper’ note (I don’t know what this is exactly) in Chanel No 5 Parfum and magnify it several times over. I should say that the first time I tested this at Barneys I somehow didn’t catch the animalic note, but upon wearing it the next day it was obvious and now I smell it immediately when I take the cap off the bottle. An interesting, complex and uniquely beautiful perfume for sure, I can’t stop smelling my arm when I’ve worn this because it is fascinating. But after a couple hours I feel like I need a shower because it’s just so animalistic. No wonder the Frederic Malle website calls this ‘almost bestial’ and likens it to perfumes of the 1930’s which smelled ‘disturbing’.
unhappyWidgeon1
Oh My!!!! I swoon when I smell this. I don’t wear this to work as I deal with the public and it just won’t do to have me standing there smelling my wrist all the time with an unsettled look on my face. This scent has a real presence. I think of it as keeping me company. It is strong and sexy and in your face in an almost uncomfortable way. And I think it’s absolutely divine.