Category: Fragrances
Brand: L’Artisan Parfumeur
Ingredients:
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selfishPretzels7
Very nice overall. One of my favorite L’Artisans I’ve tried so far. I love the effect the creamy, slightly sweet powder of the fig and sandalwood has in blending together. The sweetness is slight, and produces in my mind, a bizarre association of: my own very sweet grandmother, when I was a child and, for some reason, a Buddhist altar, the figs all piled up on a bronze bowl with sandalwood incense unlit in an offering dish. There would have to be bowls of milk here as well. The milkiness in this scent is unparalleled. It smells lovely on my skin… very maternal, generous and peaceful.
I don’t get coconut, -maybe- coconut milk? But smells less like coconut, more like cream on me. Nor do I get any pine or green from this.
EDIT: I kind of dislike the drydown of this. It smells somewhat too mature for me, like the fig gets too soft, sweet and overripe. Minus 1 lippie!
solemnMallard5
(3.5)
If figs grew on fairytale trees whose wood was santal and whose needles were pine, then we would have Premier Figuier Extreme, a fragrance that begins as the pure flesh of ripe fig and ends as a bit of a horticultural upset.
PFE shows promise in the money notes, the ones that appear first and that attract an unconsidered purchase. Luscious fig pulp smells honeyed at the outset, joined by what L’Artisan gives as almond and coconut milks. The fig is clear as sugar syrup and is nearly as sweet. You could stay in this phase forever, gratified as much by the scent as memory would be gratified by recalling a simple dessert of figs drizzled with honey, taken al fresco…
Reality intrudes. PDE (and PE before it) is a glorious artistic conceit: to create a scent that explores all facets of fig and to select as companion notes those extraneous things that both illustrate and repurpose it into aesthetic brilliance, to take nature one step beyond.
But nature can be bitter and it often victimizes where it might enhance. This is the effect of combining sandalwood with pine in the base, and it it transcends the fig notes almost in entirety, leaving the wearer wondering why the fig has been abandoned in favor of the wood and the cone.
PDE has an exceptional amount of movement, although I am not sure if this is deliberate. It went from sour to powdery to gasoline fumes and then into bitterness, ultimately becoming a frustrating exercise in futility as the wearer searched for the promise of the opening.
There is even a strong and stubborn “perfumey” section that refuses to give up its grip and floats above the sandalwood drydown with some persistence, becoming irritatingly soapy. It feels as if the fragrance has moved away from its moment; where fig should have been center stage it is not and raw pine needles and sandalwood are. Although there is a floral note, it isn’t necessarily anything recognizable and seems only to serve the purpose of making PDE smell like “perfume.”
Overall, it smells as if two-thirds of this fragrance has been outsourced, or was a brief worked on by various competitive noses, each with his or her own agenda. That it moves with such whiplash speed from sweet to bitter is interesting and a peculiar study in contrasts, except I am certain this is not what was intended. The end result is the olfactory equivalent of eating ripe fig and then sucking on bark. Quirky enough to become addictive, even if the equilibrium is off.
affectedCrane2
Hm, nice, although I usually don’t like figue scents. The milky-coconut blast is also nice and comforting here (and I don’t like the smell of coconut in perfumes either).
All in all, a fragrance that I was sure I wouldn’t like turned to be quite nice and almost on my wish list. Anyway, I am not sure would I buy it because the drydown is a bit flat, bland, and I have noticed a strange artificial ruberry (?) smell in it.
Between 3+ and 4.