Category: Fragrances
Brand: Diptyque
Ingredients:
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wornoutChowder2
Philosykos the infamous – those on a perfume journey eventually creep their way up to it, and the house. I’m going to go right out on a fragile limb here and start with the facts as I see them:
It’s a linear, quiet, hyper-realistic fig fragrance. Until almost the dry down, it doesn’t smell like a perfume, it smells like figs. Before you start the ‘Oh, but that’s what it’s supposed to be smell like, that’s why it’s so masterful!’ stuff – yeah, I get that. I’m just stating the facts.
It’s expensive. Especially if you get the EDP. I own both, and I don’t see much of a difference between the two, and I’ve tried. Hard. Over and over because I paid over $300 for a small bottle of the EDT and then larger bottle of the EDP, hoping for better longevity and projection. The differences are minimal and I wager that only hardcore perfumistas will note the nuances, and even then those nuances aren’t enough to really change the experience. I don’t find much difference in wear time or projection.
It doesn’t project. It doesn’t last. It doesn’t leave a trail of sillage. I understand it’s delicate, I understand that in order to get this type of Fig, one must temper the other notes and almost require them to play only walk-on parts. I would even go so far as to say it’s part of the ‘genius’ of this fragrance, much like another great let down for me, En Passant by Frederic Malle. Delicate, beautiful, but just for a short time and at a very short distance.
So you have a Fig fragrance that smells primarily of Figs. It’s expensive, and you’ll find yourself over applying and re-applying throughout the day if you want the effect of anything beyond a skin scent. Just think about this before you splash out on a full bottle without really knowing this fragrance first. Align your expectations with reality, is all I’m saying.
Now for the scent – it’s beautiful. A swollen, earthy, cool, green Fig, (bark and roots and all), that’s milky and mouth-watering. It’s neither feminine or masculine because it’s simply a nature scent. Babies could wear this, there is no sex or gender.
I’ve been fortunate enough to spend some summer holidays on Crete, and some Italian Mediterranean coastal towns. On Crete, everything is dry and sun-baked. Scents travel effortless through the air. Ripe olive trees, Heliotrope, Sea Daffodils, tumblers overfilled with Raki, the smells of shampoo, soap and sweat. You can smell everything balled up into sweetness, collisions of headiness that buffet you when the breeze blows. Philosykos reminds me of the smell of Agia Galini in high summer. It’s evocative and special. I love Agia Galini.
If I rated this just based on the fragrance itself, it would be a million lippies. But it is marketed as a perfume. It is a perfume. And for my perfume dollars, I expect it to behave like one. I’m sick of the disappointment that comes when I buy a beautiful, well crafted, expensive fragrance and have it last only an hour and not project beyond a few inches. At least call it a skin scent, Diptyque.
truthfulPlover2
Fig is my mother’s favorite fruit so any time I smell them I remember her instantly. Just before leaving my house today I found a couple of figs in the kitchen, so it goes without saying that any perfume with this note evokes nice memories and a sense of calm and comfort. For some minutes, then I get dizzy and get a headache. I’m very sensitive to fragrances and have to be careful not to put on too much or wear a very strong perfume. Still, I persisted and finally found Dyptyque’s Philosykos EdT.
I had a learning curb with Philosykos. To me, is the only fragrance with fig as the top note that I can actually wear and enjoy all day. It has a good balance between sweet, green and wood notes to make it easy to use for any occasion, day or night. I do think this is more suitable for summer, because the sweetness of figs is very reminiscent of warmer months and sunny days (at least to me). I still wear it during winter, to feel a little bit of warmth.
The notes are: (top) fig tree lead, green fruit, (middle) fig tree wood, milky sap, (base) white cedar and musk.
I have no problem with the longevity of this perfume, but if that is an issue there’s always the Eau de Parfum. I would buy it again, but for very personal and sentimental reasons so it’s not a very objective review. So if this has any notes that interest you, try both versions (EdT and EdP) first and see how it wears during the day.
pacifiedOwl3
I loved the smell, but tired of it with about a quarter of the bottle left. In all that time, only received one compliment on it.
goofyGarlic9
Figgy and clean, yet not too fruity. I wasn’t a fan at first, but this is the kind of scent that grows on you.
I’m a big fan of unisex / genderneutral fragrances, and this definitely qualifies. Both my boyfriend and I wear it, in fact we tend to fight for it in the morning. Dyptique categorise the scent as “woody”, and it is, but I would add it verges on herbal, too. I don’t reach for it every day, but wear it when I feel like something that’s neither sweet nor musky.
This is one of my two favourite Dyptique fragrance – I’m also a big fan of Tam Dao, but this one is less sweet.
empathicOcelot8
Beautiful. Gives off the entire fig tree, from its sharp bark and leaves to its succulent fruit. But it has absolutely no longevity or sillage that lasts longer than several minutes (perhaps the EdP is different). In fact, if I am wearing it to seduce someone, I apply it immediately before the encounter, and make my move once it’s at its peak. To maximize its longevity, I layer it with its corresponding cream or over another fig-laden scent, such as my beloved and highly rationed Cielo Napa Valley or L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Premier Figuier Extreme. But I save that combination for someone really special…
I would bathe in this if I could!
EDIT: When I had used the last remaining drop of my beloved Philosykos, I went to the Nordstrom’s where I purchased the bottle, only to learn that they were out of stock of the EdT version of the scent. I decided to give the EdP version a try and it is even more beautiful, with slightly more wood notes yet with the fruit opening I adore. The sillage and lasting power of the EdP is much greater than that of the EdT. If you are disappointed with the potency of the EdT version, try the EdP, and you won’t be disappointed.
wearyEland8
With all the rave reviews for this fragrance I thought I’d try it. I tested this in store and was immediately struck by deja vu. I couldn’t immediately place the scent though. I’ve spent all night sniffing my arm and it’s finally come to me…. The dry down smells just like the Mecca It’s a pushover cuticle balm. I have a tub of cuticle cream that’s several year old and they’re not identical but very similar. The fragrance isn’t my cup of tea but I can see why people like it.
It’s a gentle, clean, crisp fragrance with a woodsy and slightly medicinal quality. I like it but not on me.
humorousSausage0
Creamy, mildly coconutty, clean. It smells very natural, as if it’s your natural scent, wears close to the skin. Nice and fresh so more of a summer fragrance. Longetivity isn’t great but it’s not terrible either but then it’s different for everyone! I find it lasts longer on your clothes as well so just make sure you get some on your top.
eagerSeahorse6
If this perfume would last longer on me than 30 mins, this will be a 5 star review for sure!
I completely adore the scent, there’s nothing quite like it. It’s green, a little sweet from figs and smells so natural, like I rolled in a fig garden. It’s totally me and it’s my signature. And a complete shame it lasts less than an hour so only I ever smell it 😕
Can somebody please make a primer for perfumes, like we do for eyeshadows?
dejectedLizard6
I fell in love with this and wore it when it first came out. It was my first niche fragrance. Before that I had worn Mitsouko and dyed my hair platinum blonde. My first perfume was Calyx. When you’re young, you love fruit, and Philosykos holds a special place in my heart.
It does smell like rain, and it also smells a bit like pee. (There must be some unlisted jasmine in there.) It’s the weirdest thing! My cat loves it. I use the Figuier room spray in the summer; I spray my curtain panels with it. When I do, my cat sits up and starts smelling the air and scratching the sofa lol. I think it does that to men, too.
This fragrance was a game changer in the industry, so I gave it five stars. Some history: Olivia Giacobetti was a prodigy and fortuitously met Annick Goutal at the tender age of 17. She made the Figuier candle in 1990. Then she made Premier Figuier, the first fig that I know of, for L’Artisan, and Diptyque had the good sense to release Philosykos in 1994. It remains their best seller in the line to this day.
It is a very light EDT, probably about 8% concentration. The white musk in the base is tenacious. For me, it’s mostly a summer scent, unless there’s precipitation in the forecast. It will always be a staple of my wardrobe.
mildApricots8
This is a polarizing scent. Although I love green scents, this one didn’t work so great for me. I was getting the dirt note, which was nice, but the fig was really overwhelming and then the green sort of creeps through while you’re fighting the scent of coconut. I know all the fragrance people like it, and maybe I have to know fragrances better first and give it another try afterwards, but for now, I’ll stick to L’Ombre Dans L’Eau if I’m feeling Diptyque. That being said: the packaging is GORGEOUS.