Category: Fragrances
Brand: Serge Lutens
Ingredients:
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obsessedFalcon2
This is very close to real wild musk pod which is unforgettably haunting and sweet, but from a passionate amateur perfumista’s viewpoint it is pushed over from the musky animalic to the all too human homeless/unwashed/ dirty old MAN…I find it is intensely masculine, yes ball sweaty ; I end up in a sort of schizo-conflicted zone where I don’t know what gender I am supposed to identify in the wearing of it… I want to attract the man, but not smell like him…yet I must have a little of this around, because it is so magically powerful.
amusedPiglet8
Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan is notorious for its colorful (and sometimes, hilarious) reviews. If you are reading this one, you have probably already read a few scary and laughable descriptions. So, I will spare you from that.
First of all, I have to admit that when I tried this one, I was already aware of its bad reputation. But the fact that I have a weird skin chemistry, which turns tea into “wet dog” and outrageous amounts of skank into “fluffy pink bunnies”, gives me enough reasons for trying “difficult” perfumes. When I picked up the tester, the SA asked me if I was sure and, after I spritzed it on my skin, she said: “oh, I wish this could smell this good on me”. I fell in love immediately, despite my husband’s puzzled look (something tells me he is not a big fan of this one) and left the store with a bottle, of course.
As the name says, it is a musk scent, and if you want to find out who was Koublai Khan, just check the Wikipedia. Let’s concentrate on the “Musc” part of the name then. Musks can be divided in two big groups: clean or animalic. This said, I must warn you that this one is definitely animalic. If you are looking for a clean detergent type of musk, you won’t find it here. But if you are looking for a musk with claws, this may be right up your alley.
The list of notes for Muscs Koublai Khan includes: civet, castoreum, costus roots, cumin, labdanum, moroccan rose, ambergris, ambrette seeds, beeswax, vanilla and patchouli. The funniest thing is that, despite its awful reputation among perfumistas (due mainly to the animalic musk note), it is pretty tame on my skin.
Muscs Koublai Khan opens with an outrageously high dose of “skank”: civet, castoreum and cumin. I guess this is what gives it the bad reputation. But these notes are very well balanced, sweetened by honey and amber. It smells warm and sweaty, as in “unclean”, but without smelling exactly dirty, as in “fecal”. But, again, my skin chemistry is weird and your mileage may vary.
As it steps further in the drydown, the skank combo recedes a little, just enough to give the other notes a chance to shine. There is definitely some rose, but it is not a fresh and crisp rose. It is more like a rose petals potpourri, beside a burning incense stick. It keeps on changing throughout the day: one moment I get only the skank notes and, when I least expect, the rose-incense combo steps out. Then, all of a sudden, I detect some powdery leather, like a very well worn saddle. It’s never boring.
Muscs Koublai Khan is a unisex scent. The silage is big (translated as: apply with caution) and the lasting power is outstanding (translated as: this stuff can survive showers). It may be too rich for hot summer days, when the heat keeps the rose and incense aspects barely noticeable and highlights the honeyed skank.
As a least word, my confession: I love this one, but don’t wear it as much as I would like to around other people. It is far too personal (like Miller Harris L’Air de Rien), and I can never be sure if other people will mistake my perfume for “unwashed body parts”. It is not how it smells to me, but just to be on the safe side, I wear mostly when I am alone at home.
debonairRhino3
I think this is a scent that various with individual body chemistry. After reading so many divergent reviews I ordered a sample. I am the type of person that scents disappear on after about 30 minutes, especially those citrus and fresh air ones. Currently I use Musc Ravageur by Frederic Malle.. Also the older Opium by YSL. I love musk in general and it tends to last on me.
At first it seemed a little strangely sweet but soon softened to a very musky dry smell. The longer it was on the more interesting it became. Never experienced the skanky effect.
My husband asked it I had on a new scent and loved the patchouli smell he was experiencing(yes, he was correct, it does have patchouli). He thought it was one of the most pleasant and distinctive scents he had smelled. I had him read some of the reviews and he just started laughing. Never noticed any “socially unacceptable smell”.
I will definitely purchase a bottle.