Category: Fragrances
Brand: Annick Goutal
Ingredients:
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morbidCur8
Altogether too much, straight-up lime in this for me. At the far drydrown, I was getting something nice and the lime had finally dissipated (like around 8 hrs). Not for me.
sincereBass1
Annick Goutal’s Mandragore reminds me of a scene in the 1980’s vampire film The Lost Boys, when the main characters’ grandpa says “….well that’s about as close to town as I like to get.”
My perfume shelf is filled mostly with deep, dark, resinous fragrances, and Mandragore, with it’s bright lemony/peppery opening that quickly fades to a soft minty, bergamot, is as close to a “summer scent” as I like to get.
It’s a lovely, (softly) zingy scent that calls to mind some sort of herbal shandy one might drink to refresh one’s self at the close of a balmy June afternoon. Unfortunately, much like the buzz from this weak cocktail, the scent lasts but a moment and is gone.
humorousGranola7
I get rubbery lemongrass, aniseed, ginger and black pepper. The iris is very light, combining with the bergamot to give a very faint lemon baby powder feel on the dry down. Not keen on this fragrance as I’m getting a strong rubbery overtone that reminds me of rotting daffodils, and it makes my stomach turn. Lasts 2 – 3 hours on me.
Top Notes – bergamot, pepper
Middle Notes – mint, star anise, ginger, sage, iris
Base Notes – boxwood, labdanum
zestyGarlic7
A summery, citrusy fragrance that isn’t sweet in the slightest. It opens with a big burst of scent that’s lemony/peppery, then quiets down to something minty and herbal. I’ve seen complaints about the longevity, but on me it lasts around 5 hours and that opening burst is pretty far-reaching. It’s perfect for crisp spring days.
pacifiedOwl8
This review is for the edt from a vial on card.
Mandragore possesses so few ingredients that it almost presents as a linear perfume. Fresh Bergamot dominates the entrance, if only for a short while. Within a minute, the fragrance settles into what it remains for about 4 hours; a sharp, simple, spicy melange of Bergamot, Black Pepper, Mint, Ginger, and (barely noticeable) Star Anise. The Bergamot and Mint are lovely, and manage to stand up well to the potentially overpowering Pepper. This is one of the more exemplary uses of Bergamot I have encountered. It is used throughout the composition to create balance, rather than existing solely in the top notes. The Star Anise is lost in the mix; I can’t discern it. However, with so few ingredients, it must have some subtle effect. The Ginger is almost edible, and supports the Pepper in its role. The drydown is woodsy, similar to Sandal or Cedar, but more subtle, as it cannot compete with the Spice and ubiquitous Bergamot. I have never had the opportunity to smell the Mandrake Root, or Mandragore, so cannot comment on its presence or lack thereof. Due to its potent hallucinogenic effects, I can only imagine that it is used in minute amounts as a marketing tool…like cocktails containing Absinthe.
This is almost a gourmand, like gingerbread without the sugar. Mandragore gives the impression of being created predominantly of natural materials, but very carefully, and with some synthetic boosters. I see this on both men and women, but would prefer it on a man. This fragrance lacks roundness- without the addition of a voluptuous base like Tonka, Vanilla, or Amber, it requires the oilier skin of a man to have depth. I find it sits atop my skin, but never melds into it, even on a warm day.
Compare to current Idole by Lubin, which is both creamier and boozier, and has more character.
dejectedBaboon4
The purple bottle and gold ribbon really called out to my inner-goth, as did the ad copy that said this featured a note from an obscure root thought to have magical powers, and that it was hoped by its creator Camille (Annick’s daughter) to bring out “the little child in all adults.”
This starts out with a burst of well-blended soft citrus and bergamot, then fades into a green and herbal scent that is not too sweet but still very womanly, creamy and delicate. It’s the sort of fragrance I can admire (if not love) because it manages to be feminine without sacrificing sophistication – it would be perfect for a woman hosting a garden party in a tailored linen suit.
The trouble is that after about an hour or two, it fades away almost completely and leaves a non-descript green dry down that is vaguely reminiscent of Ninfeo Mio.
I cannot fault the Goutal line for unimaginative perfumes (though not all of them are exciting,) but this has such low lasting-power that however lovely it might be, I would have to re-apply every hour to maintain the green notes that it boasts at its heart. Not worth it.
sheepishLocust4
Most of Annick Goutal perfume are unisexe, the only thing that change is the bottle, the male perfume bottle are square, and the femal bottle is rounder. Mandragore is a unisexe perfume but I will say it tend to be more female than male. It is citrusy (top note)-spicey (the anis is really coming out in the middle note). It is more of a spring-summer perfume. It took me a year before I decide to buy this fragance, it is not main stream and that what I like about this. It smell so good and it is unique. I do not regret purchasing this perfume, I will re-purchase, the only thing the lasting power could be better.
aloofWeaver4
A strange but pleasant fragrance, difficult to describe. I didn’t get individual notes so much as an allover impression. It seems introverted but cheerful–similar to the impression Shaal Nur gave me. It is dry without being astringent. A spicy/herbal citrus, but not as bright as that description would indicate. It would also make a great room fragrance.
relievedOil2
I wanted to like this a lot. It appears it’s being marketed as a scent imbued with mysticism and witchery. The climate these days is really lending itself to that and despite the slightly cheesy bottle ( the frosted royal purple with gold filligree print/top above), it sounded very promising…and certainly different from my normal perfume wardrobe. Besides, I was wearing some new Ralph Lauren paisley fishnets today so…why not?
The opening smells for me were in the anise/fennel/licorice family. While I would say that it was probably the anise/fennel being emphasized, I could definitely detect the sacharine sweetness that licorice root leaves behind. Those of you who drink licorice root teas like Market Spice will know what I mean when I say it can be really overbearing. Not so in Mandragore, good in that respect. The bergamot is also strong, punched up with something akin to lime and a detectable mint is also present.
Now the mandrake. The entire scent is supposed to be based off this potently magical root. Well, to me, roots are just not very sexy. To my understanding, the combination of vegetal greeness with the above mentioned notes is supposed to conjure up some witchy seductive dark scent of mandrake but…let’s be honest…who of us really knows what a mandrake root smells like?! It probably smells like a rutabega (Ew). That being said, the final opus was not so bad.
The real dissapointment of this perfume was not the tacky bottle, nor the questionable vegetal smell, nor the cheapness and overproduction of absinthe-y smells in the last few years. No, it was the hour it took for the heart of the perfume to dissapear altogether and leave behind nothing more than a powedery vegetal citrus whiff (probably my least favorite notes in the entire composition). I feel sorry for you Mandragore, I was too easily swayed by your mystical aesthetic and lush title. Yet your promising complex begginings ended in a Bath and Body Works spritzer. I was practically begging to love you with my fishnets and my black and gold flecked nails (Sally Hansen Sequin Scandal!) ….
I sure hope your Eau de perfume is vastly better but I doubt I’ll bother to find out.
XO
(See all my reviews at: swigandtipple.blogspot.com)
unhappyOwl8
This is probably one of the most bizarre fragrances I’ve ever sampled and owned. It’s strange and yet captivating; a perfume that stays close to the skin and whispers its secrets. Each time I spritz it on I find myself sneaking sniffs, trying to identify the various notes. On my skin Mandragore opens with soft citrus that slides into a long bergamot note. Somewhere around the middle, a ginger and woody note comes out, overlaid with something kind of sweet (Anise? I think?) While the silage isn’t huge, the scent stays with me for about three hours, finally drifting away to a clean green scent. Mandragore would make a lovely and unexpected office or summer perfume. Definitely a scent you won’t catch just anyone wearing.