Category: Fragrances
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worriedChamois6
Knize Ten: I am reviewing the original formula EDT from 1920, not one of its many flankers.
This is one of those scents that I did not altogether like at first… (in the category of numbers like Molinard HABANITA, État Libre D’Orange SÉCRÉTIONS MAGNIFIQUES, Miglin PHER’OMONE) but which, over a period of several days, became fascinating and irresistible to me. And if you’re like me, it’s those slow-burners, the late-bloomers who earn their fascination only after some proving time, that become my most passionate loves.
KNIZE TEN is, you might say, a smell that’s “so Out, it’s In”. Many have called it THE reference leather… the UR-leather… the granddaddy of all leathers. It is uncompromisingly masculine, quite possibly one of the most naturally masculine scents I know of, out there in the uber-macho world of things like Caron YATAGAN and Elizabeth Arden SANDALWOOD. Everything about KNIZE TEN is bold and seigneurial, imposing and maybe just a wee bit “cruel” in its confidence… but in the very best way, of course. The way Piguet BANDIT almost smells “cruel” in its challenging elegance, a scent Cruella DeVil might wear. But sometimes, whether you are male or female, soft, pretty and yielding won’t do, and you just need to show the world who’s boss for a little while. “Yang” is the order of the day here; KNIZE has never even *met* a Sensitive New-Age PC Male.
KNIZE TEN flings the swinging doors of the western saloon aside with unapologetically bitter notes, aromatic and sharp, like broken geranium leaves spiked with steely black pepper, barely leavened by ghosted floralcy of rose and carnation. Perhaps other aromatic notes haunt, like rosemary, French thyme, perhaps some artemisia, growing on a noble trellis of dry petitgrain, dry bergamot and a hint of nostalgic neroli, the Art Deco kind that pink Mexican cakes of CASHMERE BOUQUET remember.
But these are just the opening gambit for our cowboy’s REAL intention, which is an intense, tarry, tangy, toothy leather. Think: cade, isobutyl quinoline, dirty patchouly, Siberian birchtar, heaps of inky black castoreum. No suede purses, red Moroccan fauteuils or polished Bentley upholstery here: this is a bold, Wild-West kind of macho leather, like the interior of a brand-new pair of Tony Lama cowboy boots. Though born in Vienna, KNIZE TEN seems to have been inspired, avant-la-lettre, by 1950’s Technicolor Hollywood Westerns, the kind filmed in orange-soaked Monument Valley, and more likely worn by the handsome, wicked vaquero in black rather than the rescuing hero in white.
Nothing impedes, mitigates the bold leather’s declaration: it’s never sweetened unduly by amber or defanged by sweet vanilla; only subtle notes of cinnamon, iris, cistus labdanum and bark-y oakmoss soften the burly effect somewhat.
And yet, as time goes on, with repeated sniffings, KNIZE reveals just how supremely, impeccably Euro-elegant he is. If he is a Bad Boy, he is one like a James Bond: naturally noble, indisputably masculine, thoughtlessly handsome, working-class and upper-class à-la-fois, with a little curling sneer of MAD MEN-era male superiority, an insouciance bordering upon cruelty. This is a 50 SHADES OF GREY kind of man, who will make you see God, but not before he’s playfully (?) whipped you into submission with a cat-o’-nine-tails. (You Scorpio-Sun males must run, do not walk, to obtain your flacon of KNIZE from LUCKYSCENT).
KNIZE TEN, brewed in 1920 by Vincent Roubert and Jacques Coty (Yes, THAT Coty) is as much a masterpiece today as when it was originally launched for Joseph Knize’s Vienna men’s boutique designed in a stark, Bauhaus, pre-Deco by architect Adolf Loos. Said to have been James Dean’s signature scent (can a bad-boy scent boast a better poster child?). A similarity has been drawn between KNIZE and Caron TABAC BLOND, as both possess a kind of suave, smoky iris-y butchness.
KNIZE TEN will be at home in a black tuxedo as much as in black leather. Manly yes, but there will undoubtedly be some modern Bad Girls out there today who’ll like it, too, especially if they are channeling their inner Bettie Page in her black leather BDSM get-up.
All serious lovers of perfumery at some point simply HAVE to try this…. It’s THAT wonderful and unique. Easily in the all-time Top Ten of great masculine fragrances.
superiorMagpie0
New found love of the leather note in perfume. My favorite is tabac blond vintage extrait which is a smooth, rich, unadorned leather with very few obvious floral flourishes. ( I am expecting a 1960s vintage Avon Leather for men that I expect will be more crude and obviously masculine. Edit: Avon leather (NOT Avon black suede leather and NOT Avon Black Leather) is fabulous straight leather with no florals and I have written a review of it under both Avon Leather and Avon Fox hunt; my bottles are a hint mustier than vintage Tabac Blond, but for the extremely reasonable price, Avon leather is definitely a worthy must try).
At the other end of the spectrum is CdR, reformulated in the 1990 with more iris. I have a rue de cambon trio and an older ETD decant. Both are more floral than Knize.
Knize ten is in the middle. Straight leather, but lush, definitely high end, but not polished or embellished with a pretty bouquet. Some reviewers have skin chemistry issues re animalic, rubber, gasoline facets. I don’t. It’s gorgeous. However, my particular skin chemistry enables me to wear fragrances that others find challenging, I.e., I love FM Une Fleur de Cassie (if you read the MUA reviews some revile UFdC as if it were ELdO Magnificent secretions). I also love Guerlain Pamplelune which others can find too sulfurous.
drearyBobolink6
I will be short on this one: if you look for the ultimate leather fragrance, search no more. This is it. All the rest are just smaller sisters or brothers, or a full kindergarden of children. Especially Cuir Mauresque, which is almost the twin more shy sister, but less endowed with a soft note that makes Knize Ten more round, balanced and elegant overall (and wearable by women as well – as I tend to ignore the designated genders of fragrances and wear whatever appeals to me). A note of caution however : this is neither Cuir de Russie nor Daim Blond, flowers are not at the party in the first row. This is 90% leather and the rest is just background.
pluckyMallard7
Here I am again, reviewing something explicitly marketed towards men. Those who read my review on L’Air du Desert Marocain already know how I feel about gender in fragrances, so I will skip this part.
Knize Ten has been around since the early 20’s and suffered at least a few reformulations since then (anyway, give me one fragrance with more than 10 years that hasn’t). This review is on the current EDT.
This is a leather fragrance, there is no other way of describing it. How does it compare to other popular leather fragrances? Well, it doesn’t. If there is anything around that smells like this, I haven’t heard about. It is not the kind of “straight on your face leather” like PdE Cuir Ottoman (another favorite of mine) and it is not quite floral like Chanel Cuir de Russie and so many other great ones I won’t mention here. It has a lot of fruitiness and spices, but I don’t see it neither as an oriental, nor as a gourmand. This is leather, period.
Knize Ten starts out a little bit on the “butch” side, with the leather standing out from the beginning, paired with the citric notes. After a few minutes it mellows and I swear I can smell strawberries (but there are no strawberries listed among the notes, I’m puzzled). The drydown is softer and borderline feminine, with this fruity undertone to the leather, amber, soft florals and spices. Despite the reformulations, the “animalic” vibe is still there, all the way through the drydown, probably subdued, but still there.
The notes list includes lemon, bergamot, orange, petitgrain, rosemary, geranium, rose, cedar, orris, carnation, cinnamon, orange blossom, sandalwood, leather, musk, moss, patchouli, ambergris, castoreum and vanilla.
I see Knize Ten as a “must-try” for all the leather lovers. The ones who are not very fond of the note would do better staying away from it. It works better in cold weather (as most of the leathers do) and has good projection and longevity. I also have to mention the price tag: it is almost ridiculously inexpensive if compared to other fragrances in the same quality range.
spiritedMacaw0
@ karelin7
(in Vienna, Austria)
dejectedThrushe5
I have been thinking about fragrances that fit the (stereotypical) image of old Vienna: The waltzes of Johann Strauss II, balls at the Hofburg, Wienerschnizel, whipped cream in your coffee. Amouage Lyric Woman is the feminine fragrance that fits this image for me, but what about the men? For them, there’s nothing better than this fragrance that really does come from Vienna: Knize Ten. Though, of course, women should seek it out, as well. It opens with a bright, citrusy top reminiscent of a traditional Eau de Cologne, but at right about the point when a citrus cologne would fade altogether, a perfectly smooth leather emerges, accompanied by a little bit of something sweet and fluffy that reminds me of heliotrope. Ach du lieber Gott, this stuff ist ausgezeichnet!
drearySnipe1
Knize Ten is a restrained, gentlemanly scent. The initial spray has a plasticy smell, but that dissipates in the first hour or so. The drydown reminds me of the pimento/sandalwood drydown in Florascent Umami, plus powder, dried rose petals, and worn leather, with a hint of smokey tobacco. I don’t get any of the strawberry or citrus that some reviews mention. This isn’t a scent I can see myself wearing very often, but I’d find it appealing on someone else. For men, I think this would be a great scent to wear with a tuxedo. It’s classy, and will not overpower even in close quarters.
sadIcecream6
I feel like the guy who captured the unicorn. This legendary frag is becoming impossible to find in the US. According to Bergdorf, the distributor folded up shop, disappeared, or became otherwise extinct. No one has stepped in to take the distributor’s place. And that’s a damned shame. Because this is a rocking good frag. The top note is sweet. Luca Turin claims it’s strawberry. Who am I to argue? Flanking the, let’s call it strawberry, is an astringency that could be camphor–but very mild. It’s this smell that has led to some to comment on an odor not unlike the piss pucks in men’s rooms. This astringency is well managed and avoids creating the impression that we’re standing in the john at some swank restaurant while the attendant awaits with a towel. Bringing up the rear is the leather note for which this frag is known. A word on that. I have smelled a number of leather frags including Bandit (great), Etro Gomma (very good), and Royal English Leather by Creed (oh god, we’re not in the men’s room, we’re in the urinal, the puck looming above us). Iso butyl quinoline, the chemical that give these frags the smell they call “leather” is to actual leather what, say, cherry in cherry LifeSavers is to the fruit, or what lavender in Yardley lavender soap is to the fresh cut plant: someone’s idea of the real thing, an approximation that, given enough exposure, we come to recognize as the chemical counterpart. This is not to disparage the smell of leather in leather frags. I really love that smell but, to me, it has nothing to do with actual leather. That said, this has that “leather” smell in abundance. It’s really a very sweet floral/fruit smell mingled with leather with the camphor keeping the sweetness from becoming cloying. Not particularly complex but wonderful. For those who are looking for substitutes, Royal English Leather will give you the idea but will also, as noted, yank you into the men’s room. Etro Gomma is similar but not as sweet and lacks the camphorlike astringent smell which, to many, might be a plus. Creed’s Tabarome, the original that they have withdrawn from sale, is also similar in effect though it lacks the camphor and is considered a tobacco frag, so there is no iso butyl quinoline and, therefore, no virtual leather. I would wear Knize Ten on any occasion. It’s a wonderful frag that I hope they don’t mess with. Would someone please distribute this stuff here in the US? (by the way, the printed leaflet that comes with the frag is as old world as the juice itself. It still lists New York as a Knize outpost, along with Munich and Vienna, though Knize hasn’t had a store here in over a decade, if not longer. And–there is no www listed anywhere.)
scornfulDotterel8
As a lover of just about ALL leather scents – I was VERY happy to receive a vial of Knize Ten in a swap.
Hmmmm, a little Bandit…. a little Tabac Blond, yet a freshness lurking in the background…. the drydown becomes fresher, and lasts quite well…this will likely be a lemming til I get a full bottle!
gleefulLocust0
It’s slightly expensive in terms of price (a 125 ml bottle retails for $75), but it’s worth every penny. On my skin I get LOTS of leather throughout the development of the fragrance and just a hint of fruity sweetness in the top notes. Being a huge fan of leather fragrances (Cuiron by Helmut Lang is one of my all-time favorites), I was immediately drawn to Knize Ten. I can see why this was a favorite of James Dean. It’s quickly becoming my holy grail of colognes.