Category: Fragrances
Brand: Dior
Ingredients: Aldehydes, Sicilian Lemon, Galbanum, Basil, Bergamot, Peach, Orange, delicate spices, Musk, Honeysuckle, Rose, Jasmin, Cyclamen, Patchouly, Tonka, Moss, Vetiver.
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unhappyGarlic5
Starts off with an unmistakable Chanel No. 5 vibe. It’s got a bit of a zing – very pretty, crisp, and great for a night out.
resolvedMackerel0
Oh, divine! The newest version of Diorella is far more like the original than the versions in between. I am so happy I tried it. The weird minty note pops out at the beginning, and then it’s the unmistakeable Roudnitska signature that’s recognisable in LPdT too. I don’t know what the notes are, but gosh it makes me nostalgic. My mother sometimes wore this when I was a child and I remember the smell on her coat. It’s surprising how modern it is too… nothing about it smells like a dated fragrance. It could easily be a new ‘eau’ from Diptyque – citrus/fruity/floral/green. The green is vetiver, which I love. An old/new favourite! I hope Dior don’t mess around with it again!!!
guiltyApricots9
Diorella is a very Mediterranean perfume, and truly reminds me of Grasse and the surrounding area, including the perfumer’s home and garden (which I visited in 2009). It also reminds me of a perfume that his son, Michel Roudnitska created way into the future – Eau Emotionelle – also playing on the cantaloupe-jasmine-ionone theme, but in oil-pain strokes rather than the sheer aquarelle of his father’s. The culture in that area is greatly influenced by Italy and Spain, and there is something very Italian about it, especially in the opening notes. If Diorella was a woman, she would be one with a very outgoing, young spirit. A woman that loves to laugh and enjoy life’s pleasures, and just goes with the flow – but isn’t audacious or dominant by any means, and is very kind, generous and open but without ever being vulgar in the least. There is something truly carefree, open, fun, bursting with life and joie de vivre about it. In case you didn’t know already – it’s a true masterpiece. It has been relatively recently re-introduced along with the other classic retro Dior-fumes: Diorling, Dioressence, Diorama… I’m sure the new version pales in comparison but I’m nevertheless intrigued to find out what they’ve done to it to overcome the restrictions on jasmine levels and the industry’s new (low) standard of avoiding oakmoss at all costs (even though it is still allowed – the washed-down version of atranol-free absolute, and at only very low percentage). The following review is for the vintage eau de toilette.
Diorella is munching on a honeydew melon. It is ripe, juicy yet somehow still crisp, as it is brilliantly paired with citrusy notes of lemon and bergamot and a touch of spicy-sweet green basil. Her peach-toned skin emanates a scent that is similar to white peach’s delicate, milky and slightly nutty aroma, due to the use of peach aldehyde and peach lactone. These unique fruity notes were both brilliantly used in a non-edible way (as Edmound Roudnitska explains beautifully in Michael Edward’s book, Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances). Rather, it brings freshness and a unique texture to the jus. It is brilliantly paired with effervescent, ethereal and soapy honeysuckle, crushed basil leaves and a tad of the oily aldehydic notes backed with ionones, that simultaneously give the clean impression of triple-milled soap, and the dirty allusion to hosiery that’s been worn and sweated in for at least half a day. That dichotomy between anti-bacterial herbs and animal/human secretion seems to be at the core of Diorella.
The oily aldheyde and peach notes fades rather quickly, allowing the basil and citrus notes more breathing room. Orris butter is present yet very subtle, giving a soft-focus background to the composition, and making it somehow smell more feminine. What truly moves to the forefront is jasmine. Pure, unadulterated, indole-rich jasmine at its best. And it is that indole that will accompany Diorella throughout her strut on the skin and the surrounding air – first an ethereal jasmine, and later on a full, unabridged indolic jasmine, with its fruity, jammy peach-like and earthy and animalic character beautifully showcasing this gorgeous phenomenon. The similarity to Le Parfum de Thérèse as well as Eau Sauvage are striking; but what surprised me what the affinity I discovered with Eau d’Hermes. Also a perfume that is all about jasmine, yet from a very different point of view – more warm, sweet-earthy and spicy. It is probably the juxtaposition of jasmine with ionones that creates that olfactory connection for me.
Last but not least, it’s time to talk about the base notes, the foundation of Diorella. No matter how much Roudnitska denies any connection to Eau Sauvage, the similarity is striking, despite the differences. There is definitely oakmoss, but not nearly as much as in Eau Sauvage, which gives it more of a green, dry and woody character rather than a dense, brown-earthy and musky feel. Vetiver also supports it in this direction. Even the patchouli, which appears in both, seems to be toned down and instead of the big-warm-oily patchouli hug you get in some feminine Chypres such as Miss Dior – there is just a single brush stroke of it, done in aquarelle. Last but not least, where Eau Sauvage has a generous dose of hay, which gives it an almost-fougere quality, Diorella has a subtle sprinkle of tonka bean (or perhaps just pure synthetic coumarin – in reality there is a very small difference between the two), giving it a slightly bitter finish, but with that feminine soft-focus that reflects the orris from earlier on.
Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Basil, Melon, Aldehydes, Peach
Heart notes: Jasmine, Honeysuckle, Hedione, Orris, Violet
Base notes: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver, Coumarin
puzzledRuffs3
I spotted this fragrance coming back from Berlin, i regretted not buying it at the airport as i was unable to buy this anywhere in the UK it seems. I was over the moon to find that my boyfriend found it and treated me, what a hero!
I find that within the first 10 minutes the fragrance is pretty strong and has a very classic dior scent, i worried that the base notes are too strong, however once it settles it becomes beautifully fresh and uplifting. I love that it turns into quite a clean soapy smell, it’s as it’s as though i’ve just stepped straight out the shower and into freshly laundered clothes which lasts all day!
It’s a very classy smell and is perfect for summer!
truthfulBobolink7
Beautiful- lovely – uplifting. It evokes a happy feeling for me. The citrus keeps it cheerful. Pleasantly harmonious. I do think the lasting power ought to be better, but nothing wonderful lasts forever. Edit- lol- Dh was like you smell like ketchup, have u been eating ketchup? Turns out the faded version of this smells exactly like ketchup on me!
dejectedOryx0
I’ve loved this fragrance for years…. haven’t worn it in a while but I will again. I started wearing it when I was in 19, in Scotland as an exchange students. It is a feminine version of Eau Sauvage; that’s part of what I love about it. A crisp, but feminine, summery scent. Perfect with crisp white blouses and black cropped slacks….simple and elegant.
dearHeron0
This is one of my favourites, I wore it in the 80s, and where I live it was not available until very recently. My daughter, who buys me a surprise scent from a range of several of my old faves every Christmas (which I pay for as she is still young) knew that this meant a lot to me, so when it became available again, she chose it for me. I am so happy to have it. It smells beautiful on me once it settles. It certainly has an aura of “old elegance” which to me is a good thing. It cheers me up every time I wear it.
outlyingSwift6
I recently sprang for the whole bottle after appreciating a little sample of DIORELLA. I’m glad I did, I love it. It must be pointed out that DIORELLA is fine, Midcentury French perfumery, and that ALONE places it head and shoulders above nearly any department store fragrance being debuted today. DIORELLA was the proudest creation in 1972, of its creator, Edmond Roudnitska. I’d call it a Green-Hesperidic-Chypre. At present, only the EDT formula is manufactured, and is available only from the online DIOR boutique. Inasmuch as DIORELLA is all about brilliant, top-heavy freshness, perhaps it is well-suited to an EDT formulation.
Opening spray of DIORELLA yields a blindingly sparkling impression of aldehydes, bitter-green galbanum and lemon zest. Basil confers a soupcon of mintiness. It is mingled with notes which greatly suggest “cool wetness”, including a vaguely shampoo-like note which gives that “rinsed” smell, like BRECK used to do. Subtly juicy peach and melon give their Midcentury qualities. Then a most curious accord emerges: an almost savory musk, almost protein-like quality, touched with a not-there whisper of cumin. It is this quality which some have likened to “fresh meat”. Indeed it is a delicate and reassuring animal-like smell, which gives a concrete tether to all the sparkling effervescence in DIORELLA, and makes the scent sit so welcomely on warm human skin. We humans instinctively look for animal nuances in every complex scent.
Behind this protein-like platform emerges the essential chypre base of this fragrance: the amalgam of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouly, tonka, vetiver. The chypre base is most delicate… never is it chunky or smoky or sweet or obvious… it’s just that very French “haute-couture” underpinning that bestows so much character and neutralizes any kind of sweetness.
In far drydown, we get a very subtle “orange/melon/spice” signature— it’s this gamely sportive “grin” that makes us think of EAU SAUVAGE and of late-60’s/early-70’s gender sensibilities: when women were calling for a less-girly, more sportive vibe to match the gender politics in the air. Indeed, even with the delicate floral notes here (a green, vernal honeysuckle peers frillily over the musk midtones; a rose/cyclamen alto joins the happy paean to summertime), there is no reason at all why a man couldn’t wear DIORELLA.
DIORELLA, despite its period associations, is still an amazing, refreshing, nuanced, elegant scent, eminently suited to late spring to high summer. At times, it makes me think of a pond, with its smells of sparkling, cooling wetness, and the not-unpleasant melange of fresh green grass… and the slightly foetid, mulching grasses, too. To appreciate life, we must be subliminally aware of death… and this is the beauty of a great French classic like DIORELLA. True Perfumisti will appreciate this classic for what it is, and will find themselves quickly forgetting whatever period associations it may evoke.
Five lippies for a timeless French classic.
wingedSeagull3
I totally agree with the reviewer who said the melon note kills this otherwise gorgeous fragrance. It’s also the very note that dates it so badly. I’ve worn it a few days in a row from a decant and while there is something irresistable about it, I can’t shake the 1970s vibe. Melon always smells fusty and sour to me, and here the melon lays over the fragrance like a mildewing blanket. I don’t feel clean at all but rather damp and on the verge of fermenting. Sorry, I want to love this for everything else going on behind that melon but I just can’t.
mercifulCardinal4
I sometimes wonder if my chemistry is off when I encounter so many positive reviews for a fragrance that was a “thanks, but no thanks” for me. Keeping in mind scent is subjective I thought I would add another point of view for this fragrance. I bought a decant rather than full bottle for one which turned out to be a good thing in the end. With the following notes and such glowing reviews, how could one go wrong:
Lemon, basil, bergamot, melon, green note
Peach, honeysuckle, jasmine, rose, cyclamen
Oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, musk
Unfortunately, this did not give me the timeless and effortless frag I have been so searching for. It is a time capsule frag on me and a scrubber as I just can not stand the “old fashioned hairspray” essence that lingers behind this scent. I could imagine an older, well kept auntie wearing this as a signature scent. Just not my thing at the end of the day.