Coriolan [DISCONTINUED]

7 Reviews

1. 

   relievedMandrill3

   Reply

   Notes from Fragrantica: lemon leafs, bergamot, neroli and petit grain, ginger, nutmeg, ylang-ylang and gorse; patchouli, benzoin and leather.

   This is such a classic, classy men’s scent. I’m sad it’s discontinued and so underrated. Smooth leather, oakmoss, a touch of nutmeg and benzoin for just a hint of sweetness and a nice vetiver that is not harsh or too strong (sometimes vetiver can be just TOO much, but here it’s quite nice). I do get a bit of coriander and sage, but again, not overbearing. This one does have good projection the first couple of hours, and last’s for many hours after but sits close to the skin. Expertly blended, very unisex if you’re open to a bit more masculinity in your fragrances, and a nice throwback to times when oakmoss was really used to full advantage.

2. 

   betrayedCod5

   Reply

   Edited: although Coriolan is classified as a chypre, it occurred to me that it opens sharply like a fougere (though I don’t think Lavander is listed in the notes. . . .) however, later fragrances modernized the fougere to substitute things like anise for the Lavander, so I think it’s possible to think of this as straddling the line. Arguably, with IFRA restrictions, perhaps all this is just semantics, but if I thought it might help a potential customer who is trying to pigeon hole the fragrance to see if it’s similar to others in the collection already. It does come across as classic.

   —-

   I decided to take a break from my quest to find the perfect feminine dark rose chypre and chose to wear a small single dab -not a spray – of vintage coriolan. It’s a dry herbal floral masculine chypre – probably thought of by some as grandfather-ish, others as traditional and classic. A single dab is absolutely delicious and wonderful, well blended and unisex, but I am a woman who likes wearing scents of both genders). Coriolan evokes the past in a very comforting way, a traditional chypre with citrus, herbs, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli. It is not excessively powdery or spicy. Although it supposedly has leather and Petigrain citrus notes, which my skin sometimes develops into sharp or candied effects, coriolan is problem free.

   Compared to the aggressive, hard to wear, traditional mid-century -ish chypres, ostensibly labelled ‘feminine,’ (considered unisex today), coriolan is an serene, classic rendition of bitter orange, gin juniper herbal and vetiver segueing into a warm fuzzy dry down. It is much easier to handle than Piguets bandit (sharp leather); azuree (difficult sweet tones) and aliage (aggressive mossy bitter citric leather); vintage EDT diorella (translucent savory sweet melon); vintage rochas femme (prunol base and possibly immortelle morphing into a subtle savory sweet note). Some reviewers find Coriolan musty somehow, but perhaps those reviewers also inexplicably find Mitsouko musty and dated. (To me, mitsouko – both the vintage parfum de toilette and the extrait, 2013 batch with atranol free oakmoss – is spicy, golden warm, simultaneously crisp and rounded, and perfectly unisex and timeless).

   I think the negative reviews of coriolan may be due to over-application by spray atomizer. In my opinion even a single spray releases too much and then the fragrance becomes sharper, less agreeable. (I have a guerlain miniature that enables dab application). There are also reviews that remark on the possible use of immortelle in Coriolan as problematic. Immortelle’s savory sweet fenegeek maple burnt sugar note usually commands my immediate attention. I do get the impression of sweetness that rounds out the citric bitterness and aids the transition into the dry down, but nothing jarring. (And nothing as prominent as in luten’s jeu de peaux).

   When first released in 1998, I read that Coriolan was perceived as antithetical to lighter citrus watery trends, so it did not sell well. I also read that a version of coriolan was re-issued by Guerlain under the name L’ ame d’ hero (soul of a hero), with less oakmoss and a substantially higher price. Since oakmoss is essential in both a classic chypre or fougere for depth and longevity, I vote for the less expensive vintage original.

   Vintage bottles of coriolan are plentiful and inexpensive via on line sellers. I give this four stars because, for the very reasonable price, it delivers. Also, very important, if you try it and believe it is too ‘old school or masculine,’ please consider waiting for the dry down before dismissing it. This is very nice on either men or women.

3. 

   forsakenMussel2

   Reply

   Very green, very peppery scent. Almost herbal opening,slightly bitter at first, but very well blended in the drydown. Could be considered a mature gentlemens scent. However a very green, fresh and sharp fragrance which could be considered a classic. To me definitely an “outdoors” kind of scent, but on the right person this would certainly give a very positive, elegant and refined type of masculine vibe. Which would be very welcome. Would recommend both for formal and informal wear.

4. 

   lyingEland1

   Reply

   Per Basenotes, this was “reorchestrated and relaunched as L’Ame d’un Héros in 2008,” and reviews indicate the newer scent is toned down a bit. Have not tried the new scent, though I saw Corolan at Marshalls a few years ago and wish I’d bought it. I can’t imagine why Guerlain thought it needed toning down (though I recommend sticking with one or two spritzes of this as the sillage is potent). It smells like a masculine (as opposed to a unisex), but a woman could easily carry it off. It reminds me a bit of Bulgari Pour Homme in its overall feel and suave, yet persistent sillage. It starts refreshingly sharp and citrusy and dries down to a lightly spicy-aromatic scent. Don’t be scared by the patchouli–this is well-blended. The stand-out note to my nose is coriander, which is a lemony spice that’s not as hot as the pumpkin pie-type spices. Not too spicy for the summer heat–the juniper seems especially suited to summer (known to most of us as the dominant flavoring in gin). Top Notes: Lemon Tree Leaves, Bergamot. Middle Notes: Juniper, Absinthe, Coriander, Nutmeg. Base Notes: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Everlasting Flower.

5. 

   bubblyCaribou9

   Reply

   This was a impulse buy and I don’t regret it. Very crisp and clean scent. A bit sadly though the citrus takes over the other notes in this fragrance. I think Coriolan would be great year around. As a woman I’m not sure I can pull it off since it does smell, due to marketing, like a men’s fragrance. We’ll see. Smells like a lighter version of Uomo by Fendi. Also the bottle Coriolan comes in is so nice in that it’s been well designed. I know the design is based off of a gunpowder flask but it also looks like an unpleasant torture device. Not that I’m happy about it looking like a torture device but the bottle design is great. Nice fragrance.

6. 

   thriftyRat7

   Reply

   I found this as part of a little travel set of miniatures in a clearance bin at my local chemist. I immediately bought this since I have been reading about if for years but I had never seen if for sale before. I couldn’t wait to get home and try it. It smelt familiar somehow and I immediately loved it, then I realised it was for men, but that won’t stop me. Smells very classic and sophisticated like a real perfume. So far everyone I know has liked it on me

7. 

   dreadfulTomatoe4

   Reply

   I think this is for men, but I would wear it. A mellow citrus with some very interesting spices – nutmeg – and florals on the brisk side.