Category: Fragrances
Brand: Serge Lutens
Ingredients:
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forsakenLizard6
Chergui has been my go-to evening scent for many years now. When I was young, in the mid to late 80s, my mother wore Obsession. I mean, she WORE Obsession. She piled it on in the summer months, claiming it got better when it “mixed with her sweat.” I’m pretty sure this is why I tend to wear heavy Orientals and monster white florals in the heat, and crisper scents the rest of the year.
Chergui is reminiscent of Obsession to my nose, but more modern obviously, and less conceptual—it feels like Obsession was created to make a point, or with an idea in mind, whereas Chergui was designed to simply smell good. It’s linear yet still a little complicated. Darkly sweet, yet with no darkness or subversion: sweet tobacco, sweet amber, and sweet honey. A powdery iris floats over the sweet notes, reining them in like a sledmaster and his dogs (or something). That iris is the only reason I can wear this, since very sweet scents are not my jam. It’s heavy on a summer night, but it seeps in as you wear it, melding into a personal aura as opposed to a worn scent. It has sillage, excellent lasting power, and smells better the longer it’s on your skin. The bottle itself will last forever, since 1-2 sprays is all you need.
I do love this perfume but feel I am about to phase out of it for some reason. It’s very sexy. I love it, but I’m not *in love* with it, if that makes sense. If it had a touch less sweetness and maybe some sandalwood…but I’m such a hippie on the inside, so I could say that about any perfume lol.
truthfulDingo3
This gives me terrible headaches. It is very sweet with strong tobacco notes. Quite a unique scent, but isn’t for me.
hushedFlamingo5
I bought a decant of this first because some reviewers said this smelled like moroccanoil which I love. And it does so I bought a whole bottle. I don’t need much and this is definitely a winter scent for me but I love it. It does smell enough like moroccanoil to me until they eventually make their own perfume oil which I am sure is coming. I have their bath oil, shower gel, and body creme but the scent is fleeting. This is the cream on top.
lovesickSheep7
Thanks to a generous sample at Sephora, I’ve been wearing this for a couple of days now. I like it but it’s a little too sweet for me in the end. I smell amber (which I don’t like normally, but this is a good amber), tobacco, and honey. Oddly enough, this really reminds me of Eddie Bauer’s discontinued Adventurer!
aloofJaguar9
I love this scent! Nothing gathers more compliments than this for me. Amber, honey, hay…deliciously sweet and spicy notes. One tip: try to find the old version made by palais royal du shiseido (there have been many reformulations of this scent, and it’s important to get the right one).
morbidOtter8
Mmmmm this is so divine. I adore this one. On me it is all sweet warm tobacco with a hint of honey….rich amber, a bit of powdery iris, a mixing of incense and hay and a teeny bit of Sandalwood.
It opens so rich and sweet and a bit spicy, which I love. The tobacco leaf and amber combo is to die for. You wouldn’t think iris would meld with this, but it does, so well!! And the little bits of hay (green, then dry, then green) just make me feel a bit sexy and exotic.
I find this one to be suitable for all seasons (it’s a moderately warm spring day today, but I’ve tried it in Fall and love it then, too)—it’s a bit of a powerhouse, and it lasts for 7-8 hours easily on me. This one is *almost* backup worthy. I love the bottle, as well. A definite winner!
(crosspost)
sadWildfowl9
I have been sampling a generous decant of this over the past few days, and I must sadly report that I am underwhelmed. Is body chemistry really so different that a lush symphony of scent on one person will smell like, on me, pecan caramel chewy buns? Not that I don’t like pecan caramel chewy buns, but you can get foody type fragrances at Bath and Body Works for far less money, less hype, and less highbrow attitude. This started out as strong men’s aftershave on me–spicy and a bit medicinal. That lasted about 2 minutes, which was a relief. Then it morphed into a kind of fruity granola smell, and then settled into the sticky buns. One of my “tests” of a fragrance is to see what it smells like after I’ve gone outside to shovel after a Minnesota snow fall. My body is all warmed up, I’m sweating a bit, and fragrances bloom and show their true, um, colors on me then. Tuscany per Donna? Oh la la! What joy! Habanita? If I could nibble my own neck I would! Vintage Emeraude (worth lurking on e-bay for): A person could weep over the beauty of a fine fragrance. But after 3 days of shoveling after sleet and snow: Still the sticky buns. Fragrance is very very subjective, more so than even cosmetics and skin care I think. A few reviewers say this is good for layering, but for the money, why should you HAVE to layer to add depth, longevity and sillage? Fine fragrances have legs to stand on their own… But I tend to think that sometimes people feel like a fragrance is better than it really is due to 1) Brand bias (if it’s Chanel, it MUST be wonderful–nope: Coco Noir is bland and insipid and has absolutely no “noir” to speak of) and 2) Price point bias. If it costs a ton of money, again, it MUST be good! Nope. I have decided that if I have time for it (I’m in school now) I shall endeavor to explore state sales in hopes of finding some vintage classics.
madWhiting0
Note: I find Andy Tauers Vanilla Flash- Tauerville in rollerball format more coherent, less acrid powdery, less cloyingly sweet, easier to wear than either Fumerie Turque (vanilla flash is similar) or Chergui, both of which used to be go to scents for winter.
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Other reviews below have described. Chergui well. I have recently jumped on the vintage fragrance bandwagon, and as a result my former Lutens favorites, such as Chergui, feel too sweet and arid powdery to my nose. A little goes a long way and it’s better to dab than to spray.
Sillage wrote in her review below ‘sweet smokey spicy amber . . .’ I agree with all of that except I think it would be greatly improved to have the bite of carnation or clove or something to counter the honey and sweetness. It’s all shapeless, warm base notes to me.
I do occasionally wear a dab of Chergui on the wrist and a dab of MKK or Avon Leather (vintage from the 1960s, NOT Avon black suede or black leather) either of which cut the honeyed powderiness a bit.
enragedPretzels1
It took me awhile to write This review. I’ve been wearing chergui from a little sample a kind SA gave to me & trying to “figure out” This scent. When i first apply it, i immediately get pipe tobacco & honey. I imagine this Is how honeyed tobacco would smell. That goes away and the tobacco goes to the background & i get something dry & almost grassy but not green grass, it’s a dry grass with honey. It’s the strangest smell i’ve ever smelled but it’s a warm cosy smell. This stage lasts about an hour then i get the smell of roses, dry roses and powder pierces by wisps of Tobacco & creamy honey. The entire scent Is like a honeyed, creamy,rosy, baby powder with that dry grassy scent that stops this perfume from becoming boring. This Is the drydown i get & then it becomes a lightly honeyed creamy, dusty skin scent. I loved this perfume! Sometimes i wished there was a tiny bit of spice in there to cut through that creamy powder phase but i love it! I Can imagine this smelling hot on a Guy.
murkyDove4
I own 5 Serge Lutens fragrances, and I enjoy them in this order: 1) Chergui, 2) Jeux de Peau, 3) Un Bois Vanille, 4) Filles en Anguilles, 5) Feminite du Bois.
EDIT 9/24/14: I now like them in this order: 1) Filles en Anguilles, 2) Feminite du Bois, 3) Chergui, 4) Jeux de Peau, 5) Un Bois Vanille.
I love all of them — I think they’re *brilliant* perfumes.
Here are the notes of Chergui, per parfumo.net:
Amber, Hay, Honey, Iris, Leather, Musk, Clary sage, Rose, Sandalwood, Tobacco leaf, Juniper berry, Frankincense
Sweet amber, basically. It’s complex & deep & kind of resiny but also quite sweet, let me emphasize that — they were generous with the honey (the third listed note). I ordered Chergui unsniffed, based on reviews, and when I received it, I was a bit disappointed at how *sweet* it is — nevertheless, it’s still very good.very surprised at how sweet it is.
Sweet-smoky spicy amber, and I’m wearing it now. Has almost a sweet pipe tobacco quality, to my nose. A relative of Youth Dew, Cinnabar, Prada, Must de Cartier Classic, BPAL Snake Oil, Ciara, Laura Biagotti Venezia, Escada Collection — all in the same broad general category, I think. No patchouli in Chergui, no vanilla — primarily amber, and it smells quite sweet & pipe tobacco-y to me.
Chergui is strong & rich & beautiful — you have to be careful — you only need a tiny touch, and then it blooms on skin & has great sillage — lasts very well.
This is a great Fall/Winter scent. Complex, full-bodied, exotic, gorgeous, rich, & sweet. Love it!