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holisticCoati3
A Tour de Force Olfactory Illusion That Transports the Wearer to Another Time and Place
Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake chose not to gild the lily, or in this case the patchouli, in composing Borneo 1834. Instead of a heavy, sweet, gourmand fragrance, which the house certainly can do if so desired, this is more of an intellectual fragrance if I may put it that way. It takes the wearer on a journey back to the olfactory environment of the trade route where the aromas of wonderfully fresh patchouli leafs and cacao permeate the surrounding atmosphere.
I have wanted to try Borneo 1834 for quite some time, and now I finally have done. Why did I wait so long to purchase a bottle? Well, I was a little worried about the camphor note. I also was worried that Borneo might be redundant in my collection since I already own several fragrances with pronounced patchouli and/or chocolate notes, including Chanel Coromandel, Mugler Angel, Guerlain Gourmand Coquin, and the surprisingly effective Avon Extraordinary. I am happy to say now, however, that I need not have worried about either one of these possibilities. Borneo 1834’s camphor note does not spoil the fragrance, and Borneo stands quite ably on its own as a rather addictive combination of fresh patchouli and raw cacao that is unlike any of my other fragrances.
Since so many reviewers mention Angel in their reviews of Borneo, I eel the first thing to say is that whilst Angel is quite sweet and a bit fruity, Borneo is neither sweet nor fruity in any way. Some reviewers also mention Coromandel in their reviews of Borneol, so the second thing to say is that whilst Coromandel is a rather elegant, shimmering Chanel-esque creation, Boreno is more naturalistic, more “fresh” in the sense that I smell the patchouli as the leafs must smell whence picked fresh from the plant in the actual spot where they grow. Likewise, the cacao note is fresh but dark, deep, and unsweetened—this is not baker’s milk chocolate but a rich, deep, very dark, and slightly dusty, raw chocolate.
I was also a bit worried about the camphor note in Borneo. I feared it might be medicinal in the worst sense of the word and totally ruin the fragrance for me. I am happy to report that it is not medicinal at all. In fact, it exists only as a fresh tinge to the edges of the freshly picked patchouli leafs and smells utterly natural and complimentary, so if like myself you are worried about a nasty, medicinal smell of camphor, or worse–moth balls, please be assured the camphor note in Borneo is a subtle and natural component of the patchouli leafs themselves.
I am sorry to say I cannot detect any white flowers in Borneo as I am a very great lover of white flowers. I also cannot discern any specific spice notes, only the merest hint of spice that seems to be a component of, and emanate from, the patchouli itself, as does the camphor note. However, despite my inability to detect white flowers and/or spices, Borneo is a very appealing fragrance indeed. There is nothing fussy about this fragrance. It is down to earth and earthy. It is fresh and refreshing but not in that artificial way of many after bath products on the market today. I truly can close my eyes, inhale this fragrance, and imagine myself somewhere along the trade route in 1834 with patchouli leafs and cacao all around me. Their natural, unprocessed smells mingle with one another and permeate the air around me.
Despite my reluctance to succumb to marketing copy, Borneo delivers exactly what it promises. It is neither too modern nor too contrived nor too over-worked. It is satisfying. It is simple but not simplistic. Sheldrake has not gilded the patchouli here, and that is all for the best. Borneo is unlike any other patchouli-cacao centric fragrance I have come across thus far on my perfume journey. Sheldrake has created a tour de force illusion that transports the wearer to another time and place far from his own.
Borneo is not a gourmand fragrance in the sense that it smells edible, but it smells edible in the sense that whilst smelling it I can imagine that the beautiful, fresh patchouli and cacao notes MIGHT BE turned into something deliciously edible. In that sense then, the notes are like delicious raw ingredients that I could imagine becoming many different delicious things. If the raw silks that were delivered to European buyers wrapped in patchouli leafs smelt like this, then it is no wonder that the scent awakened a fervent desire for more of it! As a woman, I can easily wear Borneo, but I would love to smell this on the right man. Ooh, la-la!!
Whatever fears or worries you may have about Borneo, I believe you will find they are unfounded. ‘Tis true Borneo is a patchouli and cacao centric fragrance, but I find it very naturalistic, not artificially sweet, not medicinal, and not gourmand other than as being composed of notes that smell of possible raw ingredients for something that might become gourmand, much in the way the very best vanilla beans smell of a raw ingredient that will help to make many delicious foods and drinks. If you generally do not like patchouli in any form, then Borneo will not likely capture your fancy, but if you like patchouli and dark, rich, dusty chocolate as notes, then you will very likely enjoy this fragrance as much as I do.
Projection and sillage are soft to moderate. Longevity is average, and it wears fairly close to skin after the first 2-3 hours. If I fast forward to late 1930s Peru, Borneo is the fragrance that I imagine Dr. Henry Walton “Indiana” Jones, Jr. is wearing as he searches for the lost Ark of the Covenant. Do not ask me why exactly; it just fits.
I cannot imagine any venue where Borneo would be inappropriate. Only patchouli haters e the new skyscraper bottles, I do not find them particularly aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and I think their height is somewhat precarious as they could easily be knocked over more readily than a shorter, stouter bo
bubblyMoth0
I get liquorice, camphor and raisins for the first ten minutes. Heart is patchouli, bitter cocoa, cardamom and wood. This is simply gorgeous. The comparisons with Angel are understandable due to that predominant patchouli, but Borneo whispers while Angel shouts. If I ever find this in that beautiful limited edition bottle that would probably be the tipping point for me to purchase.
hushedBoa8
Patchouli and chocolate, but not sweet chocolate. Bitter, dark chocolate. Wet earth, leaves, ancient trees in a dark forest. All these come to mind with Borneo.
This is not for the faint hearted! This has a darkness and earthiness to it that I have never smelled in a fragrance before. After a while I can detect a leather note, but no matter how hard I try, I can’t detect any of the white flowers that I know are in this.
Borneo is spicy and woody, but has an awful initial resinous note which smells to me like plastic. It is very earthy and incredibly strong. This is what gives it a masculinity that does not appeal to me. I can see this being amazing on the right person but on me it is too deep and dark. Glad I got a sample first, I would not buy this.
pacifiedTacos0
Borneo is a patchouli masterpiece. It is as if Angel traded in her glitter lip gloss and clear platform heels for a deep burgundy lipstick and velvet smoking slippers. It is a smooth, dark, polished and sophisticated scent. And dry, dry, dry! No sugar or berries here, and no one will confuse you with dessert, even though it does contain cocoa.
As a side-note, no other perfume has such a profound impact on my mood. I find it extremely grounding and meditative, yet strengthening–when I wear it I feel as though I can handle anything. Strangely enough, the camphor in it makes my sinuses clear and I can breathe more deeply, as if I were breathing seaside air. I’ll wear it to yoga, to bed, to the grocery store, and cover all my scarves in it in anticipation of cooler weather. I am planning on buying a full bottle for my birthday. This scent is perfect for you earthy Virgos out there! Unless you are a patchouli-hating Virgo, because Borneo is all about patchouli. (Of course, non-Virgos would smell great in this also–you just gotta love the patchouli.)
Wish I could still find this in the glorious engraved bottle that was available a few years ago.
Notes (from Fragrantica): patchouli, white flowers, cardamom, galbanum, french labdanum and cacao.
Updating: If you are wondering about longevity, or gasping at the idea of me wearing this to yoga– Borneo starts off with a bang, but if you give it a little time, it only hovers close to the body once it settles in. I spray it once or twice, and then top it off if I feel like it later in the day.
abjectWigeon9
Here’s a link to a great review of the EDP. I dont think I could put it any better.
shyMackerel7
I was hoping to get more cocoa and amber from this, but I only get a hint of cocoa for the first 30 seconds on my skin, and then this quickly settles into all patchouli all the time. It’s a sweet, earthy, almost honeyed smelling patchouli. And it’s way too simple for me. After a while, it’s a bit like patchouli and a whiff of lavender-y men’s cologne (?).
I’ve found my ultimate patchoulis in the Reminiscence Paris line and Thierry Mugler’s Angel, and this doesn’t even come close to smelling as well rounded and rich as any of my other favorites.
joyfulMallard3
smells uncannily similar to davidoff zino.
superiorSeahorse0
Notes: patchouli, white flowers, cardamom, galbanum, french labdanum and cacao.
The first blast is dark chocolate and patchouli, as if I was smelling an exotic dark chocolate bar. On me the chocolate is the headnote, vanishing soon to leave me with the patchouli and the spices. I am sure the white flowers, albeit undetectable, do their part in creating a well-rounded, balanced scent. I would describe the scent as dark, dry, woody with just enough spices and flowers to not make it bitter or too dry. Due to the labdamum the dry down is very pale and sweet. Lasts for more than 5 hours.
grizzledCardinal3
i love it forever. it smells like dank colonial oppression – what dark desires. chocolate, tobacco, patchouli, and teak – perfect.
affectedGarlic1
This is a huge patchouli blast! I understand patchouli leaves were used to keep away moths – this could clear a county of moths! And the chocolate note does not work for me either, it is too stale and musty to be pleasant.
I always appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into Lutens work but this one is just not for me.