Bijan

1 Review

1. 

   somberJaguar5

   Reply

   First, for those who are puzzled at the paucity of reviews on this, there are more under “Bijan Bijan” in “Unlisted” category on MUA. Next, I don’t hate Bijan. If I had to put it in a category, I’d say Emblematic 80’s. To start, it was horrifyingly overpriced, from a design firm whose hallmark was overpricing. The overpricing is critical to understanding the zeitgeist of this fragrance — it’s part of a set marked by overstatement, overpricing, excess.

   The pricing has now come so far down that it’s clear not only was the initial cost inflated, the ingredients are not of very much quality (which I kind of always suspected – still, nice to have it confirmed). There are some naturals in here. I’m guessing the orange blossom is a pretty inexpensive one easily found in middle eastern fragrance oils — I’ve met it before, most recently in Madini’s Azahar.

   Specific notes, per Fragrantica, are: ylang-ylang, narcissus, orange blossom, bergamot, neroli and pimento, Persian jasmine, Bulgarian rose, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, honey, orrisroot and tuberose. Base: Moroccan oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, benzoin, cedar, heliotrope, musk, Tonka bean and vanilla.

   I’m not surprised by the miscellany. Bijan, to my nose, is a big (and I mean BIG), bitter, shoulder-paddy orangeblossom dominated Big Floral combo with a generous whack of sugary notes in the base. The sugary base is sort of like a big bottom meant to balance the big boobs of orange blossom. To my nose, the balancing didn’t work. It goes hairspray bitter on my skin almost immediately. The ylang-ylang comes through in a central sort of incense-y clang, and the narcissus adds to the bitter aspects of this. There is also a distinct tuberose twitch, much as there is in Anne Klein. The base roars with sugary stuff.

   But here’s where the miracle of different skins might come into play. For years, 24 Faubourg and Giorgio were disasters on me. But… I’ve found Giorgio can actually be worn. By me. IF, IF I barely spray a cloud in the air and walk near it. In other words, very very very lightly, and even better if there’s a layer of an eau de cologne like 4711 over and/or on top. I can also wear 24F sometimes now as well. But Bijan… I don’t think it’ll ever work for me. It also reminds me of Norrell, and Caron’s Infini in that all of them turn into toxic hairspray clouds on my skin.

   But I’m sure there are people whose skin manages this. If they don’t mind buying (at least a little) into the “I Have Money — SEE!!! So I’m Better Than EVERYBODY” ethos that drove this fragrance, buy away — preferably at TJs or Marshalls, where Bijan can be had for next to nothing. I don’t mean this in a holier than thou patchouli way, either. Really, if you can get past the unsavory marketing, buy. I’ve gotten past Dior Addict’s crass associations, so my finger must remain unpointing. But if you DO get this, and wear it, please do so carefully. This is an easily overwhelming fragrance. If you’re a long time wearer, especially if this is a holy grail, try wearing something else for at least two weeks, preferably a month, then try Bijan again. I’m willing to bet you were wearing too much, and once your own nose and everything you own and wear is no longer oversaturated, you’ll tune this way way way lower.

   There are certainly worse things one could wear, but I must say, I also think there are better. Still, to each their own…