Category: Fragrances
Brand: Lanvin
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) – Parfum (Fragrance) – Aqua (Water) – Linalool – Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone – Coumarin – Cetronellol – Hydroxycitronellal – Limonene – Benzyl Benzoate – Geraniol – Butylphenyl Methylpropional – Cinnamyl Alcohol – Eugenol – Benzyl Alcohol – Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde – Benzyl Salicylate – Farnesol – Citral – Isoeugenol – Cinnamal
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Products You Need:
Eclat Mon Parfum
Touche Eclat No 1
Touche Eclat All-In-One Glow Tinted Moisturizer
Phyto-Teint Eclat Liquid Oil-Free Foundation
Precision Gommage Microperle Eclat
Nuxellence Eclat
Teint Dior Eclat Satin Foundation
GEL ÉCLAT Clarifying Cleanser Pearly Foam
Ombre Eclat Eyeshadow Primer
Touche Eclat High Cover Radiant Concealer
Eclat D’Arpege Eau de Parfum
Eclat de Fleurs Eau de Parfum
holisticAbalone2
Received a bottle of vintage MY SIN and ARPÈGE, both in the “Eau de Lanvin” strengths, essentially a strong eau-de-toilette. I can’t help comparing them, as they are “siblings” from the same era, and share some DNA.
As another Fragrantica reviewer has correctly observed, they are Yin and Yang to each other, the way Piguet’s FRACAS is to BANDIT, Guerlain’s L’HEURE BLEUE is to SHALIMAR. ARPÈGE is “solar”, or “Appolonian” while MY SIN is “lunar” and “Dionysian”. Both are products of the grand era of French perfumery, of the first half of the 20thc.
MY SIN has heavy-lidded, nocturnal flowers as her starring characters, rooted, as we know, in a pronounced musk base of civet, ambergris and costus root. ARPÈGE is brighter, more “golden” to MY SIN’s “deep violet-blue”. ARPÈGE is definitely more balsamic, and I detect not only benzoin, but tolu balsam and quite possibly myrrh and opoponax; perhaps it is the tolu that imbues ARPÈGE with a certain fleeting spicy nigh-cinnamon quality, certainly given edge by a pleasingly bitter coriander. ARPÈGE is more “cheering” and “society chic” where MY SIN is more seductive, somewhat “glowering”, and she has her eyes firmly set on the boudoir, not the ballroom. In fact, ARPÈGE even seems to have a slight “smoking cigarette” hint.
ARPEGE is woodier, and her powderiness is somewhat drier, more stimulating than MY SIN’s moonlit floral brew. ARPÈGE definitely possesses more citrus rinds… not only bergamot, but possibly lime and grapefruit, giving her a more tart, “thirst-quenching” cocktail quality. Her stone fruit hint is subtle and fresh, while MY SIN’s is ripe to nearly rotting.
Both are undeniably great aldehydics of yore, and it’s that sensuous éclat, no doubt softened by the old nitro-musks, that gives them a decided “oldschool” French quality, which, to an untrained nose, may smell “old-ladyish” or even possibly “Hollywood melodramatic”, but connoisseurs know this old quality is to be treasured and admired, not dismissed.
Typical of early 20thc perfumery, both perfumes are seamlessly blended… no notes stand out at all, but the whole thing merges into a distinctive whole, greater than the sum of its parts. Where modern perfumes, with their surfeit of synthetic and trendy aromachemicals, are like a sharp (and somewhat unchanging) 1080p digital photograph,
these oldschool perfumes are more like an Impressionistic watercolor, with soft, indistinct edges. That is their beauty, not their liability.
Because these earlier numbers contained a hefty proportion of natural essences, they naturally degrade in different styles and rates than modern perfumes will tend to do, even when kept in the best cool environs. You may buy 3 vintage MY SINs or ARPÈGEs off eBay, and they all will smell quite noticeably different. I have 2 ARPEGEs here, and two MY SINs, all with unknown provenance but purchased from independent sellers on eBay: They are all different: one will have a striking freesia and ylang-ylang takeoff, where, in its homologue, those notes are only hinted at. One MY SIN will contain dramatic– and undeniably authentic– animalics starring, with their not-unpleasant purring fetor undergirding the floralcy; another MY SIN will read as a more linear aldehydic, a brilliant holiday postcard, say, from the darker-smelling juice. But this is all par-for-the-course when buying vintage from eBay… You can never be sure what you’re going to get.
In ARPÈGE, the dry sandalwood seems to be a prominent, character-defining middle-note; in MY SIN, the sandalwood smells more incensey, and is proffered as a supporting basenote, married to styrax for a sueded rub. ARPÈGE smells…savory, as though it’s designed not to put anyone off their dinner.
Some have compared MY SIN and ARPÈGE to Chanel NO. 5, but they are similar only in that they are all oldschool aldehydics… there the similarity ends; of the three, NO.5 is the most unapologetically synthetic and brilliant… shiny and cellophane-like, just as Coco Chanel prescribed. The Lanvins have deeper complexities afoot.
All my Lanvins are glorious, though, and hearken to an era of elegance now long-gone. The time is soon approaching, I suspect, in which there will be no senior citizens around who will be able to identify these grand old numbers on your neck.
wingedOil3
Beautiful bottle, beautiful scent. It’s matronly. Very French chic but no. 5 just as elegant. Now it’s been cheapened up in price I’ve never had the pleasure of sniffing 1 that’s vintage. I got this from the Vermont country store catalogue. I really, really like it. I will be wearing it a lot when I’m not wearing my new HG Joy Jean Patou also from VT country store =]
mellowCamel1
This is the original Arpege scent and, in my opinion, the most romantic in the world. Hard to find at times, but well worth it. If you try the Eclat version, just know that it is not ‘the’ Arpege.
truthfulSwift4
I remember my mom wearing this as a child. I also remeber the slogan promise her anything, but give her Arpege. My mom got this in the 70’s and I remember smelling this in the 80’s and it’s always reminded me of good things and my mother. So I decieded to get a bottle for myself and her. I really enjoy this fragrence on me it dries down to a lovely floral with something more to it. The jasmine is something I can definitely smell. I like scents like patchouli and I also like florals and to me this is exactly what those 2 together would smell like. On me there is a powdery ness to the floral but it’s really nice.
I love just smelling it! Even before the dry down I enjoy the scent it’s strong, woodsy, and just nostalgic to me. I love the bottle and since the reformulation I have read on a lot of blogs that Arpege does not age well. So if you find a vintage bottle and you don’t like it wait for the top notes to disapate because it might smell amazing after. I have smelled the vintage and this reformulation and it’s still Arpege to me. It still has that something that always draws me to this scent. It’s complex yet wonderful in so many ways. This is my Fall/Winter scent without a doubt. Recommended!
alertLocust2
I believe that my bottle is an older reformulation, but I am not sure if it is post 1993 reformulation. Apparently post 1993 arpege was considered to be similar to Chanel 5, but warmer. I find that both Arpege and chanel 5 vintage edc are sharp aldehydic floral fragrances on me (perhaps skin chemistry is the issue). I prefer Guerlains treatment of Aldehydes (I love Chamade extrait), but I have not tried the Guerlain counterpart to arpege which I think would be Vega.
Two stars for fragrances that I believe are meritorious but not to my taste. Please note though that aldehydic florals are not my favored category: I generally wouldn’t choose any of them, even ones like Amouage Gold or EL vintage beautiful, which I think are very different (more effervescent, more floral) than Arpege (darker, woodier, more an abstract rendition of floral).
aboardDoves9
Lanvin Arpege Eau de Parfum
Price: $30 for 50 mL ($60/100 mL) at Chemist Warehouse.
Longevity: This stays on your skin forever. Like I can sleep with it on and wake up and smell it. I can spray it on the morning and still smell traces of it in the evening.
This is the first fragrance I have ever had. I wanted something cheap but classic as well. It smells expensive, strong and mostly like jasmine but warm still as well.
annoyedSheep0
Oh how I’ll sing the praises of this fragrance.
All the sumptuous quality of a Louise Brooks black and white.
It lasts and lasts, and has both a classic character to it, as well as tropical and pretty.
A noble beauty in black.
adoringPretzels3
Happy with it
goofyPear5
I usually love aldehydes, #5, le dix, L’Aimant but this one is too indolic for me too wear.
grudgingCardinal3
This perfume has definitely been reformulated, it’s so toned down from what I remember as a kid. My mother had the original and I recollect Arpege had more of a bite in the opening notes than it does now, sort of like Chantilly perfume. Lanvin Arpege and My Sin were one of the first high end brand perfumes I experienced as a kid, my mom had these little bottles around and I would play with them all the time and wear Arpege to bed! lol … That’s how I recognize the change in it, the new one is similar but a lot softer and much more wearable as another reviewer had mentioned. Brings back memories :))