Category: Fragrances
Brand: Serge Lutens
Ingredients:
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excludedApricots5
I blind bought this based on Fragrantica reviews and oh my gosh I’m so pleased I trusted my instincts. What a strange brew this is — creamy, bready, just a suggestion of sugar and spice. A gourmand, but not like any gourmand I’ve tried before. I’m so excited for autumn when I can wear this on crisp days.
sincereCur9
I’m actually upset I like this so much. I usually loathe anything close to a gourmand simply because my skin sugars up anything it comes into contact with, making most light, sweet scents sickeningly candied. And true to form, the licorice note in Jeux de Peau dominates on my skin, but in combination with the sandalwood and amber base, the sweetness is tempered, the spices and woods making it a little more…prickly is the only word I can think of. Prickly in a good way. There’s a…bite to it.
This scent doesn’t exactly evoke a bakery to me, though I see why it would to others. Jeux de Peau translates to “Skin Games.” To me, it smells like you spent the day working in said bakery, collecting all the delicious scent particles of the day on your skin, mingling with your clean sweat; then you walk home in a dirty, foreign street, home to your man (or woman) smelling so good they ravish you instantly. THEN the smell after that is Jeaux de Peau to me. Skin Games, indeed.
It’s really quite brilliant. I guess I have to shell out the dough for this one…
gloomySnail3
As soon as my nose got near the bottle I felt a familiar sense of recognition – Santal Blanc, Santal Majuscule, Santal whatever else… Basically this is a very nice sandalwood tarted up with some fancy notes that emphasize it’s sweet and smoky facets, so yes, caramel and baked bread. It’s reminded me that some years ago I would stop on my way to work for a coffee and pain au raisin. The latter were either undercooked or overcooked. One morning I asked if I could have one that wasn’t burnt (I may have been more diplomatic, but perhaps not) and the shopkeeper replied, ‘they’re not burnt, they’re caramelised.’ Debatable. The baked bread effect in JdP teeters on that edge… is it caramelised or has it been blackened? At any rate, overall it’s rather yummy sandalwood and those burnt edges make the rest seem sweeter.
decimalTuna2
EDIT 2: This is the second time I change my rating on this one. I haven’t used it for a month, and when I smelled it again I was almost nauseated by its cloying sweetness. Dior’s Dune is the only other fragrance that has managed to give me so different impressions on different occasions. On the right days I love it, but on the wrong ones it’s an instant scrubber.
EDIT 1: This fragrance made me learn that it’s worth it to try a perfume at least 3-4 times before forming an opinion. Originally I gave 2 lippies to Jeux de Peux, being really angry that my beloved Lutens (creator of Feminité du Bois, one of my all time favorites) comes out with this. But after giving it some other chances I realized that this fume is just shocking and strange, but actually a masterpiece. It tells a story, this time quite different than before (I was unjust at this point as well), and once you hear it, you get to see its beauty.
ORIGINAL REVIEW:
I’m not a trained nose or a perfume aficionado, so this might be the reason why I think that a vast majority of Serge Lutens’s perfumes are just variations of Feminite du Bois, his first scent originally created for Shiseido. I find FdB a perfect composition, so any alteration makes it unbalanced and sometimes even unpleasant. Jeux de Peau is a bit far from the bread and the milk it wants to invoke, and closer to the roasted sweets and the wooden cigar box Lutens is capable of invoking easily. Upon application this is what you get, and in the dry down the disrupted Feminite du Bois. I recommend you to stay far away from this fragrance, and get the original instead, if possible in the vintage Shiseido formulation. This is Dior Addict territory, unpleasant and headache-inducing sweetness and chaos.
NEW REVIEW:
Jeux de Peau is primarily a sweet gourmand fragrance which smells like walnut cookies, apricot jam, burned toast and melted butter. Thankfully not at the same time. During the several hours it lasts on your skin you can get whiffs of these delicacies, and possibly a lot more depending on your scent memories and the patisserie products you know. The truckload of cookies are balanced with a strong, smoky sandalwood note. If you like this sandalwood try Santal Majuscule as well, which is quite similar but less sweet, and rather a woody oriental than a gourmand. Jeux de Peau stays close to the skin if you don’t overspray. It’s a weird and interesting fragrance, but not an overwhelming powerhouse.
trustingDinosaur7
In order to wear this perfume, you should love very sweet gourmand fragrances– not exactly my favorite category (though I am in love with Tauerville Vanilla Flash which is turning out to be my gateway into vanilla).
I loved reading the reviews of JdP; in fact they always made me yearn for French pastry. And, when L’Artisan tea for Two was discontinued, in a slight panic, I tried JdP. While tea for two is deliciously tannic, smokey, leathery, spicy and sweet. JdP is MUCH sweeter throughout the evolution of the fragrance.
The real problem for me is that on my skin, JdP opens with an artificial (the deal breaker is the artificial quality) movie theater popcorn accord that is almost kettle corn sweet and morphs into a block of ambered immortelle that I quickly find tiresome and stale. It’s essential to dab, not spray, in order to minimize the popcorn note, but this fragrance is not for me. It doesn’t turn powdery or burn my nose like Avon Extraordinary, and I don’t dislike it nearly as much as SL Bois sepia, so I tried to layer it to make it work. It did overpower almost every other fragrance in its wake. Agree with the review of Mizzcindy below.
peskyMare3
I was very eager to smell Jeux de Peau lately to the point that I almost blind bought a bottle. I mean, sandalwood, licorice and immortelle are among my favourite notes, can also get along with the rest pretty well in most cases and it’s supposed to capture the smell of a bakery? Bring it on!
At last I swapped for a decant and I wouldn’t have been disappointed if it was a blind buy in the first place.
The opening seems to be much fruitier than I expected, the combination of apricot and osmanthus gives a fresh, vibrant effect and although it took me by surprise I really like it!
During the heart I expected freshly baked croissants but I get buttery cookies filled with apricot jam instead, which is still delicious of course. I don’t get bread either, Bois Farine has much more prominent yeasty notes and it’s more modest in sweetness.
The drydown is less gourmand, all about silky smooth creamy sandalwood – still on the sweet side – and admittedly the Lutens sandalwoods are well made. The drydown here is similar to the one of Santal Blanc but Jeux de Peau is more multilayered overall. It’s often compared to Santal Majuscule as well but I don’t agree; the later is far drier and the cocoa powder makes it quite bittersweet.
Projection is minimal and longevity doesn’t seem to pass the 4 hours mark. Beacuse of that I’m not sure if I’ll end up investing on a full bottle but for the time being I’m glad to own a decant of the delightfully quirky Jeux de Peau.
Edit: My decant is finally over and I have to say that now I do get the saltiness at the drydown with is a bit of a turn off. Still love the opening and would love a bottle if it stayed this way.
amusedMoth8
This perfume evokes a bakery. It smells like toasted warm bread, milk & butter. Really beautiful, spicy & sweet. Unfortunately i thought it was way too sweet, & too evocative of bread & butter to work for me! If the smell of toasted butter bread, sweet creamy milk sounds good then get this! I really started liking the perfume at the final drydown when that baked bread smell started disapearing & the creamy woody sandalwood & amber took over.
worldlyFerret8
I have 5 Serge Lutens fragrances, and Jeux de Peau is my 2nd favorite, behind Chergui. Actually, they’re almost tied for first place, of my SLs. The other 3 full bottles I have are Un Bois Vanille, Fille en Anguilles, and Feminite du Bois — also nice, but not nearly as beloved as my Chergui & Jeux de Peau.
Jeux de Peau smells to me like the Greek dessert baklava. It has a buttery note, a pastry note, a sweet syrupy note, and a nutty note, like either walnut or hazelnut — all the ingredients you find in baklava pastry.
Here are the notes, per parfumo.net:
Top Notes: Citrus notes, Milky note, Wheat, Barley
Heart Notes: Coconut, Licorice, Immortelle, Blossoms, Apricot, Cinnamon, Clove
Base Notes: Osmanthus, Apricot, Spices, Sandalwood, Woody notes, Amber
Jeux de Peau was intended to smell like a pastry shop, and to me, it does. It’s delicious! You have to spritz just a tiny bit, because like pastry, it’s very rich & sweet — buttery & syrupy — so use just a little bit — and mmm, mmm, you’ll want to take a bite out of your arm. I’m drooling, just thinking about it.
boredChough4
If you don’t want to smell like everyone else, Jeux de Peau is a great way to go. So delicious and comforting and original. Doesn’t smell too gourmand–actually very refined–more of a skin scent–my favorite fragrance!
truthfulHawk2
Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau is a fragrance with three personalities. It’s meant to evoke a bakery, but of course, being a Lutens, I knew before testing it would not be straight up foodie. The opening notes fooled me, though. They are buttery and not exactly breadlike, as advertised, but more of a croissant. I had mixed feelings about the top notes because they were quite unique but a bit too much like food for my taste. However you feel about them, though, they fade very fast. The middle notes are that signature Lutens stewed fruit/cinnamon/cedar accord that is in every single fragrance in the Bois series, and a few that aren’t. I like the accord but I have to say, I’d like to see them do something a bit different to show more of a range. It is weird coupled with the croissant note, to be sure. The third personality shows up farther into the drydown when the signature Lutens accord fades to an unfortunate Ambrox (or something like it). I hate Ambrox. It feels “scratchy” to my nose and as soon as it appears it just seems to quash everything else. So suffice to say, I do not love Jeux de Peau. Lutens will have to get a bit more out of the box to impress me.