Category: Fragrances
Brand: Frederic Malle
Ingredients: BHT
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debonairOtter7
I should love this stuff. I like the idea of a fruity scent that is nevertheless sophisticated, a “dark” fruity fragrance if you will, like my beloved Mitsouko. Unfortunately, the opening of Therese gets under my skin, as well as on it. I blame jasmine–never a favorite of mine, and plum, which is the main note. I have occasionally enjoyed some of the sweeter varieties of plum, but basically I find this fruit too spicy. The plum note also unfortunately reminds me of Dr. Pepper, which makes the drydown smell a bit silly to me–especially since I don’t really get rose or patchouli from this.
grumpyIcecream4
Gorgeous, sparkling mandarine leading into watery melon followed by rose and plum. It takes quite a while for the melon dissipate. Once it does, this smells like an expensive fragrance from the past in the best possible way.
joyfulDotterel9
In the summer, Overripe Melon and an overwhelming sense of sweet sharpness drowns out the other accords and is both a bit nauseating and headache inducing. I do normally try not to give perfumes a poor rating if it’s solely due to differences of personal taste, but it’s difficult in this case. I do agree with the reviewer below that stated that PdT smells like a modern fruity floral, so in that sense, given it’s age and history, it is an incredible achievement. I also sought out vintage diorella EdT (which I found initially much more challenging to wear, but ultimately not nearly as problematic as UPdT). Also UPdT is very tenacious. You have to scrub to get the sweetness off the skin.
I do wear some fruit fragrances and some chypres tinged with fruit: vintage rochas femme and vintage Guerlain parure extrait (plum); vintage Patou colony (pineapple chypre); mitsouko (peach chypre); shiseido feminitie de bois (sweet dried fruit oriental); etc. . I will continued to try a spritz when I am home alone or when i am outside and well ventilated and not likely to trouble others. I feel I should keep trying since the romance of the story and the idea of Routnitska’s genius was my justification to purchase a full bottle. I don’t mind smelling like a grapefruit or an orange or a bitter orange, as i I wear guerlain aqua allegoria pamplemousse, atelier orange sanguine and Hermes orange vert regularly in the summer. But, they aren’t as sweet or watery fruit accord.
Edit: I tried this again in the depths of winter. It still opens as a melon bomb, but morphed into something almost spicy with some depth. I am thinking that I agree with the analysis of Ella343 below, but I think the melon opening detracts.
Edit: July 2015: it’s been a while since I have seriously given UPdT another chance, meaning wore it for a day, outside my apartment, where I have had to interact with people. It’s hot summer again. But somehow the melon, while still bright and nose twitchingly powdery (in a sense of guerlain complexity and powderiness), is more appealing. (I used to think the melon is this was as prominent as the tuberose in Carnal Flower, but I don’t anymore.) I should add that 1. I am not generally a fan of the fruit surprises in the more famous Routnitskas compositions (heresy to perfume aficionados, but my samples of earlier Routnitska work may not be in good condition) 2. I am a fan of vintage Guerlain and Caron, which some people do find to be too powdery. ( in which case, UPdT will still be too powdery) ; 3. Having said that, I am not a fan of powder in perfume and find molinards habanita edit or serge lutens fourreau noire too powdery, and the younger Routnitskas noire epices, too citrus sharp powder). 4. I can however wear Malles iris poudre. Added a star to this review.
Edit: Forgot to mention, one of the past times I tested this was in the Frederic Malle salon, where I was assured by the manager that it worked with my chemistry (in that it smelt like melon, not sour).
bubblyMoth5
To me, Le Parfum de Therese smells like bubble gum, plum bubble gum if such a thing exists. Very little evolution, not much complexity, poor longevity, and very expensive of course; I don’t hate this fragrance, mind you, but I would never buy it. That some people are willing to shell out so much money to get it really intrigues me. However, if I get a chance, I’ll test it again just to check if my impressions are a little different, but I really doubt my review will go from “not worth the hype” to “great, I want it”.
pluckySausage4
I suspect that this is what Femme would smell like if they had not cheapened the formula and added that dreadful note of cumin. Limpid and fruity, this is a scent of hot weather, sultry humidity, and opulent fruit. No plasticky pink grapefruits, no generic red candy, and no overpowering sweetness. This is more fresh, lush and grown up. If you are keen on fruity florals, but do not enjoy the bumper crop of cheaply made and mass produced celebri-scents, try this.
dopeyMuesli0
This is not a perfume to be read or written about. It must be experienced. An absolute Masterpiece!
curiousCake7
Roudnitska helped to usher in an age of fresh simplicity in perfumery, and true to type Le Parfum de Thérèse is not one of those perfumes that announces your presence as you walk into a room. It shares the quiet splendour of Guerlain Mitsouko, but much more fruit than chypre, takes on a youthful vivacity that makes me think of the tan, lissome legs of Brigitte Bardot in a carelessly languid, barefoot saunter. But this is not your Sephora’s fruity-floral, the glow of peachy lactone, brightened unto incandescence with juicy tangerine, honeysweet melon, and the candied effervescence of violet, is thrown boozily together like fine sangria. Unlike the more ozonic, crisply hesperidic Diorella, Le Parfum de Thérèse is quite opulent beneath its mouthwatering surface—a chilly haze of grey pepper and rose, a thinly synthetic raspberry, lushly indolic jasmine, spiced plums and cedar, sueded vetiver—and yet in spite of its complexity not the least bit histrionic or oppressive, thanks to Roudnitska’s lifelong interest in unsaturated, weightless olfactory expression. To my nose, this is the ultimate fruity fragrance, not sharp or artificially saccharine, but the true, lush aroma of perfectly ripe melons, nature sweet.
madCrane9
Why is it the worst scents stay on me for the longest time? Even soap couldn’t get this wretched fragrance off of my skin. I got none of the lovely bits others have described with this perfume; I smelled like cantaloupes rotting in the sun for four days, and that is about all. Nothing changed about this scent from the first time I applied it until the next day when it finally wore off a bit. Just awful from beginning to end. Extremely glad I had a sample and not an entire bottle; this is a perfume I’ll stay far away from forever.
shamefulSeafowl6
This is a grown-up, sexy, innovative scent.
It is a mixture of sensuous, ripe fruit, luscious, animalic jasmine and ever-so-slightly naughty leather.
I get goosebumps when I put this on!
sincereCordial5
This is a beauty just not my type of scent personally. If you like this you have to try, imho, Parfum Delrae’s Emotionelle. It’s composed by Michel Roudnitska (the son of Edmond who composed this scent) and has the melon note figuring prominently. It’s a refined fruity floral yet I find it a bit more relaxed & softer while I think of Therese as more mature and elegant. I find that these are similar scents though and they share quite a few notes.